Translate "permanently closed"

I'm looking to install another p43 in the basement and vent it through an old window casing. I will be very close as far as clearances go because there is a bedroom window directly above where the vent will come out.

The manual states that I only need 12" clearance below this window if it is "permanently closed". Do you guys think that this means that the window is mechanically closed and sealed off or can it be defined as a window that simply doesn't get opened?

Fwiw- I don't believe in permits or inspections for work I do on my own house.

 

I take that as them basically saying "make sure the window can't be opened while the stove is running"

I don't pull permits for most of my projects either. . Then again I'm not exactly in the center of town

 

from my viewpoint (tech and installer), a permanently closed window is bad nomenclature. Any window which can be opened is not permanently closed. We consider stationary windows (like a picture window) to be "permanently closed". As you are doing your own work, not pulling a permit, I guess its your own call as well. When we install, we have to ensure that it will pass an inspection. Even when the folks arent pulling the permit, we wont violate the clearance specs

 

Insurance co. will use the installation guidelines to verify proper installs to make sure that it's up to code. So it can be a problem down the road, just saying. I just hope it doesn't come back to bite you. Maybe there's a way to say the window is permanently closed and you might have to find how it's done. Good luck.

 

When I first bought this relic I had a basement window framed and covered with Pressure treated lumber, sealed with foam and the propane company insisted it was still a window in their eyes. The Code Enforcement Officer said he would defer to their opinion. It was a temporary issue, however you should consider a few things.

I, like you don't feel the government needs to invade my castle. So if you have NO insurance or NO liens or No mortgage on your property then the risk is mostly on you. Yet if you do have others with a financial interest in your property, if you will, they are partners, you need to meet codes. If they are willing to assume the risks as you are, in writing, IOW's a contract stating that they are aware of the variance then you're good to go. BTW it's not likely they are.

 

When I had my E2 installed the company pulled a permit (which I wanted and they won't install one without) then the county came and inspected it which was a joke. I also had to have it "inspected" by the insurance company which involved my agent coming out and trying to sell me an annuity and taking the time (bless his kind heart) of going over my current policies.

Gary

 

LOL don't you love how the door is open so we'll waste your time trying to sell you something. I had a tech issue with Verizon last week, it was the same thing trying to sign me up for a couple of new phones.

 

While we are together we can go over a few things.........blah, blah, blah Don't you just love that tune

 

I'm in the same situation here, North side of the house is -loaded- w/ windows - only way to meet clearances is to go up & above the roof line w/ 4" or larger vent pipe.

* CO poisoning is nothing to mess around with Jason: if you decide to 'go for it', please make sure you install CO detectors in -all- rooms within proximity to the vent outlet.. Just trying to look out for you & yours, is all.

 

I agree. If you have any of the above mentioned items on your home, and there is a problem down the road, don't be surprised if the insurance co. denies any claims due to changes you made to your home w/o any inspection or an "OK" from them in writing.
The word "permanent" means it will NEVER change. IMO, that means the window cannot ever be opened again, even if you wanted to.

 

in the building industry, permanent is defined as 15 years. When we do abatement projects, a permanently sealed window would require drilling the sash and screwing it closed, mainly so none can open it without having to get a tool and remove the screws.

 

X2. I have the same issue with my exhaust. I don't need a code to tell me not to open the window when the stove is running.

 

Permanently closed, is one that can't be opened by someone that doesn't know that they aren't supposed to open it at certain times. However, if you stick the exhaust out 18" from the siding, it is more than 12" away. Ask me how I know

 

I notified my insurance company when I installed my first stove. They never inspected me but they did list it on my policy as on of my heat sources.

 

Good information, thanks everyone. There's no way I would ever skirt any clearance issues or do something not up to spec, especially when it comes to fire and it's exhaust.

Upon further review, I don't feel comfortable venting a stove underneath my bedroom window, so I'm just going to suck it up and blast another hole in the wall.

 

Unfortunately, there are many people that will install these stoves themselves and are not.....let's say "mentally gifted" enough to understand that. We've seen plenty of terrible and dangerous installs in ads on places like Craig's List to know that.

 

That was THEIR decision, not yours.

 

Put a latch with a lock.

 

Recommendations above will do. I have met code requirements many times for egress etc; by doing something a bit creative. If the window is an operable type window and not a dead lite or fixed glass as long as the sash can not be easily opened it can pass as a fixed window. Make sure the seals are good or seal it so no smoke CO etc; can enter your place.

Might be able to get buy with a wood dowel cut to fit snug and a screw or two. Depends on the situation.