In loving memory of Kenis D. Keathley 6/4/81 - 3/27/22 Loving father, husband, brother, friend and firewood hoarder Rest in peace, Dexterday

Cookie cutter shootout dolmar 6100 vs stihl 056 super

Discussion in 'Chainsaws and Power Equipment' started by CoreyB, Jan 16, 2016.

  1. pantelis

    pantelis

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    Yeah if you forget to put the chain to a 661c or to a 395 or to a 7910 , for sure this 346 will kick theirs azz
     
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  2. DexterDay

    DexterDay Administrator

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    I've seen a 346 smoke a 661.. In a 10" Cant race.

    In a 30" log? The 395/661 would eat it. But a Hotsaw in small wood? Ain't gonna happen.
     
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  3. mdavlee

    mdavlee

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    There's some fast 346s out there. I hope to make one myself one day. The 6100 is a very strong saw for its size. Possibly the strongest in its class.
     
  4. pantelis

    pantelis

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    TRUE :yes:
     
  5. man of stihl

    man of stihl

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    That 056 will cut better with a 8tooth sprocket on your 18" of wood and it will handle a more aggressive chain. That will improve its time...... The chain needs to match the saw.
     
  6. Cut4fun

    Cut4fun

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    Yep have a 8 on my 702 with 24" and 2nd owner before me ran it that way. I thought he bumped his head till I tried a 7 and went right back to 8.
    Almost ridiculous with a 7 on it. Older saws are torque monsters.
     
  7. CTYank

    CTYank

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    Yup, the Dolly has GREAT A/V. Smooth as silk. I've had mine almost 2 yrs now, and still like it a lot. With strato engine, a tankful lasts almost forever. On mine I've found that a 24" bar is a good match for NE hardwoods- gives me a chance to load the engine a bit. Noodling with 24", it spits chips like a fiend. Just about impossible to clog with chips when noodling too. Has a bunch of other pluses relative to 056.
     
  8. jdonna

    jdonna

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    You have some merit to that, I tend to reach for the 346 NE a lot more these days for a lot of cutting. The 60+ CC saws ride the pine.
     
  9. CoreyB

    CoreyB

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    I have a 24" for it as well and I really like it as well. I think it pulls that 24 just as fast as the 20"
    I got to use the saw all day again and for 2 tanks of fuel I got 4 healthy oaks dropped and all bucked up. The AV on this is the main reason I bought it. My old 029 and 056 make my hands go numb and ache for days. The 6100 I don't get that.
    Have you had any problems in the 2 years.
     
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  10. CTYank

    CTYank

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    No problems with the saw per se. Couple operator problems, like when I'd leave wedges over in the truck and pinch the bar, or when a big black locust snapped closed downward on the top-side of the bar and kicked the rear handle straight back just above my right knee. :emb:

    I've learned to keep body-bits from behind the saw, especially in tight quarters. It's so powerful, it kicks like a mule. Raises a welt.

    Oh yeah, you could call this a problem- when it's around freezing or below, you'd better have an attitude working for you for the first few cranks on the starter. Absolutely no chance drop-starting it, gotta hold it, either on the ground or inside yer knee. Compression gauge read 215 psi., bone-stock. Once it's run at all, drop-starting not a problem. With that kind of compression, early-morning antics are understandable.
     
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  11. Oldman47

    Oldman47

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    Drop start? Really? Have you bothered to read your owner's manual?
    Saw trying to come back and hurt me? I use a pulling bar, bottom of bar, for most cutting so that never happens.
     
  12. Mag Craft

    Mag Craft

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    Everybody knows your not suppose to drop start but everybody still does it including myself. I don't do it all the time on every saw but I still do it. Go to a GTG and you will see.
     
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  13. MasterMech

    MasterMech The Mechanical Moderator

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    In this modern era, setting the chain brake mitigates almost all the dangers of drop-starting a saw. It was an approved procedure in some saw manuals at one point too. I know, I had to re-read it to make sure I wasn't seeing things. :jaw: Wish I could remember which manual it was in.:doh:

    I've seen a throw starting procedure printed on a saw from the 60s. :eek:
     
  14. CoreyB

    CoreyB

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    Ya I went out cutting 2 weeks ago on the coldest day of a whole 5 deg. And boy it was a wake-up when I pulled on it the first time. At 5 deg with a wind chill of -20 the easy start totally disappeared. But after running a bit it was back to the easy starting I love. Luckily no pinched bars yet. Lol
     
  15. CoreyB

    CoreyB

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    As far as starting my saw I just let my 7 year old daughter start my 60cc saw.
     
  16. CTYank

    CTYank

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    You heard me right- "drop start", really. Happens that I do it with the bar pointing away from me, and aggressively throw the saw away.
    Works great for me with 576xp even, just so long as the engine can be turned over that way. (See my comments on very low temps with 6100.) And, no, I don't set the chain brake. Don't feel the need for any safety-nannies, ever. It's my butt, so let it go.

    You didn't read what I posted about the kerf snapping closed on the back-side of the bar. At risk of being obvious: I was cutting down into the ~20" diam horizontal BL log. On finishing the cut, it popped through down below, letting the upper part snap closed and grabbing the chain above by the rivets (not the cutters). IOW, obviously not a back-barred cut. As it happened, cutting with pulling chain, this sort of thing definitely can happen. Never say "never". My hope was simply to alert others who've not experienced such about how to not get nailed. With a powerful saw and/or with gear drive, you can really take a hit. Reportedly some have been killed. Back to our regularly-scheduled programming.