In loving memory of Kenis D. Keathley 6/4/81 - 3/27/22 Loving father, husband, brother, friend and firewood hoarder Rest in peace, Dexterday

Sealing around Class A through block wall?

Discussion in 'Modern EPA Stoves and Fireplaces' started by NVhunter, Dec 11, 2015.

  1. NVhunter

    NVhunter

    Joined:
    Dec 28, 2013
    Messages:
    372
    Likes Received:
    1,963
    Location:
    Northern Nevada
    What would everyone use around Class A pipe to seal it around the opening in the cinder block wall we put an 8" hole in?

    The pipe is snug but there's a few gaps here and there. What do you suggest I seal it with?

    Contractor said Firestop foam......

    Don't think that's correct...?
     
  2. papadave

    papadave

    Joined:
    Oct 3, 2013
    Messages:
    18,181
    Likes Received:
    82,470
    Location:
    Right where I want to be.
    Refractory cement comes to mind.
     
  3. bushpilot

    bushpilot

    Joined:
    Feb 25, 2015
    Messages:
    3,240
    Likes Received:
    14,363
    Location:
    Eastern Washington
    I don't know. Having said that, this?

    [​IMG]

    BTW, I don't know.
     
    basod and Eric VW like this.
  4. Eric VW

    Eric VW Moderator

    Joined:
    Jan 6, 2015
    Messages:
    24,399
    Likes Received:
    140,398
    Location:
    US
    I think a regular mortar would work.... Double walled 6" in an 8" hole?
     
    Bags, brenndatomu and bushpilot like this.
  5. NVhunter

    NVhunter

    Joined:
    Dec 28, 2013
    Messages:
    372
    Likes Received:
    1,963
    Location:
    Northern Nevada
    No, it's actually Metal Fab Class A Temp Guard pipe, 6" inner stainless steel flue with 9" exterior diameter, so the hole is actually 9" plus some change... 1.5" clearances to combustibles.

    Mortar is what I'm going to use I think.
     
    Eric VW likes this.
  6. basod

    basod

    Joined:
    Nov 4, 2013
    Messages:
    5,048
    Likes Received:
    20,841
    Location:
    Mount Cheaha AL
    Don't use regular great stuff.
    They sell 3M fireblock foam that is used to seal between penetrations in newer firecode applications - plumbing and wire pulls. I've used it to seal gaps in CO2 protected compartments at work that exceed 350-400F.

    If the gap isn't large high temp silicone would work, or just buy mortar in the caulking tube
     
    Eric VW likes this.
  7. bobdog2o02

    bobdog2o02

    Joined:
    Nov 19, 2015
    Messages:
    3,005
    Likes Received:
    10,407
    Location:
    Drury Lane, PA
    How about fire stop caulk, how big is your gap. I believe the 3M firestop caulk is rated to 2000 degrees? If its bigger than caulk can fix I'd suggest hydraulic cement or mortar mix...

    Btw, I'm a contractor with 25 yrs experience.
     
    Last edited: Dec 14, 2015
  8. bobdog2o02

    bobdog2o02

    Joined:
    Nov 19, 2015
    Messages:
    3,005
    Likes Received:
    10,407
    Location:
    Drury Lane, PA
    High temp rtv might be good too depending on your gap?
     
    Eric VW likes this.
  9. brenndatomu

    brenndatomu

    Joined:
    May 29, 2015
    Messages:
    23,445
    Likes Received:
    150,644
    Location:
    NE Ohio
    I used mortar, worked great. Been 3 years or so now. Hydraulic cement would be fine too
     
    basod likes this.
  10. NVhunter

    NVhunter

    Joined:
    Dec 28, 2013
    Messages:
    372
    Likes Received:
    1,963
    Location:
    Northern Nevada
    Gap is 1/4" in some spots and nothing bigger thab that.
     
  11. bobdog2o02

    bobdog2o02

    Joined:
    Nov 19, 2015
    Messages:
    3,005
    Likes Received:
    10,407
    Location:
    Drury Lane, PA
    I'd use the 3M caulk, they have it at HD and Lowes....

    I'm not a fan of foam, it's a pain to remove when the time comes and it can be a sloppy mess.
     
    Bags and Minnesota Marty like this.
  12. JustWood

    JustWood Guest

  13. bobdog2o02

    bobdog2o02

    Joined:
    Nov 19, 2015
    Messages:
    3,005
    Likes Received:
    10,407
    Location:
    Drury Lane, PA
    Bags, Locust Post and Minnesota Marty like this.
  14. Minnesota Marty

    Minnesota Marty

    Joined:
    Dec 6, 2014
    Messages:
    721
    Likes Received:
    2,497
    Location:
    Eastern Minnesota
    I with Justwood on this one. However, I think bobdog2o02 is also correct and the 3M material will work as wells.
     
    bobdog2o02 likes this.
  15. Locust Post

    Locust Post

    Joined:
    Oct 4, 2013
    Messages:
    8,787
    Likes Received:
    50,883
    Location:
    N. E. OH
    I agree with this one.
     
  16. Bags

    Bags

    Joined:
    Nov 16, 2015
    Messages:
    145
    Likes Received:
    431
    Location:
    Union, KY
    Fire caulk is the easiest and quickest. Fire foam is a mess and harder to control. Works but more of a quick and dirty application to pass inspections. It is used all the time on my commercial jobs. But it is limited on the sized of the hole or gap which does not affect your small one. Big gaps and holes require fire x drywall and tapped and mudded. Mortar is good too but a bit more time consuming and slightly messy but would look the best if you can see your penetration.

    You have many suggestions above and all will work except the regular foam. I wouldn't use that. So basically it's up to you and what you feel like doing but I'd narrow it down to the fire caulk or mortar. Just me. Good Luck!
     
    NVhunter likes this.