Here's a new one.....need help with new stove

So, after looking through the manuals for the Sirocco and the Ashford (yet again), it looks as though I'll come up a bit short on CTC at the back of the stove.
From C/L of stove pipe to the wall (in my case it's full brick with about 1/2" air gap), I've got almost 12", then the brick and air space before getting to the drywall.
So close, yet so far, as the requirement is 16.375".
I wouldn't visually have a problem pulling the stove out to get correct CTC, but I'd like to do dbl wall stovepipe to the ceiling.
Suggestions welcome.

 

Those clearance charts suck. The rear clearance is about the 6" between the wall and thermostat housing, not a heat issue.

I wouldn't worry myself at the moment. I would get the stove in place, and if I came up 1/2" short back there, I would go with it. But I guess I'm a rebel like that.

 

Don't they make metal panels that allow less if used?

That stove would be in a pool on the floor before the drywall behind the brick or studs behind it caught. I understand for insurance though.

 

What I was trying to say is that the rear clearnces are all worked from the thermostat housing, which they want 6" from the wall, for proper functioning of the bi-metal coil.

My sister's King worked out to just make 6" off the wall. Nothing back
there is even a little bit warm, so if I eneded up at 5.5, I would give it a shot.

 

I agree Jeff. The drawings are less than ideal IMHO.
It may not even be 1/2", but I wouldn't want the Ins. Co. causing a problem when I give 'em a call saying I installed a new stove.
The guy that came out last year was very easy going about it, because he remembered the old Ashley from the PO.
I didn't explain all the issues it's had because of their crappy burning habits.
I've even considered tearing down the brick, then doing a better 1" air gap and tile or stone, but that just adds to my already looooong list of stuff I want/need to do around here.
ETA: So then, what's the need for the 16.375" ctc? No mention of reduction for dbl wall or heat shields.
I plan to do all the heat shields and dbl stove pipe.

 

I know it's a different stove, but behind the Ashley gets slightly warm.
The worst is behind the single wall at the top of the heat shield.
I need to hit that whole thing with the IR gun.

 

I think what the specs are saying is that you need 16.375" from flue center on stove to get 6" clearance on the rear of the stove. There is an note that says 18" from the back of the single wall to combustibles in Canada. I guess things aren't as flammable in the US anymore.

 

That point came up in another post on another forum. The manual is definitely wishy-washy, if not wrong.

 

Just did a more accurate measurement and I have 11.5" from the center of my pipe to the brick, then 3.5" of brick, then .5" of air, then drywall.
15.5" to combustibles from c/l of pipe.
So, if the c/l of pipe is set 16.375" from combustibles, I'll have the needed 6" clearance from the back of stove? Or, am I still not getting it?

 

Your less than an inch short if I'm following you right.

 

7/8", to be precise.
Presuming I'm precise, of course.

 

What I find strange is the Chinook only calls for 12" from the center.

 

New stove is not a better fit than the stove now?
Burn season be over soon, can you make the necessary
modifications thru summer
& have the new stove ready for next season?

 

It looks like 12" for the 20, from the back of the flue collar. The 30 says 13". The Ashford and Sirocco 30s are measured from the center of the flue collar. More confusion.

So, if you start with 13", + 3/8 for the flue collar, +3 to the center of the flue opening, you should come up with 16.375.

 

You could pull the stove out 7/8 and run the pipe slightly out of plumb.

 

Good catch I missed that.

 

I can make anything work if needed. I was trying to figure out if it's possible to get dbl wall elbows, if I needed to set the new stove farther from the wall.
If we're only talking an inch or less..........I dunno.
Any well sized new stove will be a better fit than what I have. That's the consensus......me included.

 

That's how I read it too, Jeff.
fox, that thought has crossed my mind as well.
My existing is slightly out of plumb right now......I must have been drunk when I did that.
Wait, I don't drink.....hmm.

 

Like said can u move it fed and run the pipe slightly angled this year?

 

Move it fed....hmm?
Yep, once I get the stove, I'll just do what's needed to make it work.
Looking for advice how to make it right though.
The hearth really isn't an issue, since I built it for an NC-30 and the room is on a slab. I can put the stove as far out as needed.
I could reframe the ceiling to put it out a little farther. Then, I'd need to do 15°/30° elbows in the attic, and redo the insulation.
I have thought of moving the flashing and all, because the pipe goes up through the peak.
Seems a little overkill for less than an inch, though.