Ok well I figured why not try and help my buddy install a stove in his house! Crazy I know. Anyway this is different then mine so I have lots of dumb questions. He bought his grandfathers house. Built in the 40s or 50s. He had an old propane stove going into a center of the house block and brick chimney. Chimney run is 14'4" to the hole in the wall. Chimney seems in good shape, doesnt have clay liner but rather a circular concrete lining? He wants to put a wood stove in and I am trying to figure out what all he would need. When the stove pipe comes up and then passes through the wall I imagine it has to connect to a liner? How do you make that connection? Basically I am lost lol. I know there are through wall clearances that must be met and obviously he will need floor and wall protection. Here are pics. Location its going. Check out that old stove lol Look down from top of chimney And the pass through
None of that looks safe to me. Get a professional out to evaluate it. I would start pricing stainless steel liners.
Your post brings up lots of questions.... What stove does he want to put in? What diameter is the opening up that chimney? What is behind the paneling at the pass-thru? Is there a clean-out at the bottom of the flue? To me it looks like a minimal gas flue. I don't think it would be suitable for a wood burning appliance. Probably the safest thing would be to rip it out, put proper pipe and a good chase around it.... KaptJaq
it's hard just looking at pictures but what is odd is the top I see what ever it is you say the chimney is lined with but the hole at the bottom has nothing. I think I would try to bust all that concrete or whatever it is out and then drop a liner, that is if you have a clean out door to get the stuff out of the chimney. If not I'd put a new chimney in of maybe stainless.
At 8" you may be able to fit a 6" liner inside of it. You better tear that wall apart though and make sure you're clearances are ok. It's definitely not with the wood paneling how it is.
I can give you some info on the liner connection. The horizontal snout has a band clamp that goes around the vertical section. The screw to tighten it is inside the horizontal snout. An install like your friends would need the liner and vertical piece attached at the bottom. The snout with the band loosened has to be held in the pass through. The liner is lowered until the vertical connector is lined up with the snout. Tighten the band clamp, and the lower connection is made. My neighnor has a liner through a thimble and it worked fine. When the chimney is swept, the sections from the stove to the snout are removed and the soot is vacuumed out. The top of the tee has a band clamp to secure the liner. This tee connector is laser weled and the quality is very good. It has never loosened. There is some good information in the above posts. Chimney integrity, clearances, floor and wall protection are at the top of the list.
Thanks for that info. Yeah I told him he would have to build a hearth and have floor protection as well as wall protection. Im just trying to make sure running a full liner and passing through the wall is feasible/safe.
That looks like one of those liners that they do with a big long "balloon". Drop it in, inflate, pour concrete/mortar/whatever it is in the chimney, then when it dries they deflate and remove the balloon, A good repair depending what you are burning, but for wood heat I'd worry that the CTCs aren't met...I agree with ^ ^ ^, if you can fit a flex liner in with insulation...best solution. If 1/2" insulation won't fit maybe 1/4" would? I'd definitely want to insulate the liner though (for CTC)
