In loving memory of Kenis D. Keathley 6/4/81 - 3/27/22 Loving father, husband, brother, friend and firewood hoarder Rest in peace, Dexterday

Brought a load in

Discussion in 'The Wood Pile' started by Sam, Feb 22, 2015.

  1. HDRock

    HDRock

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    Well you can hear it but ,on low not bad at all
     
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  2. redneckdan

    redneckdan

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    I have two box fans pointing at the stove, a squirrel cage in the ceiling running ducting to the far side of the house. All doors between are open. Stove goes through ~6' of 6" single wall black to the ceiling then 6' of 6" super vent.

    I could swing a stove right now, especially with the discounted price. I would probably end up rat holing it until summer. The spot where I would want to use it is currently occupied by a propane fire place that sucks fuel and doesn't really warm the room, we haven't fired it this year. I would pull that out, build a refractory brick back splash and floor pad, then put in 6" super vent straight up.
     
  3. HDRock

    HDRock

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    Are the fans at the other end of house or close to stove room.
    Are they like 20" fans cuz small fans close to floor will work best
     
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  4. HDRock

    HDRock

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    I see you want add a stove not replace one
     
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  5. redneckdan

    redneckdan

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    The two 20" box fans are pointed directly at the stove to increase hear transfer to the ambient air.

    The squirrel cage is above the stove and pushing hot air to the other end of the house.
     
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  6. redneckdan

    redneckdan

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    Yeah, I think it would simplify things. Especially given the inefficiency of my current stove.
     
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  7. HDRock

    HDRock

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    Maybe I'm not understanding you right but, it Sounds like you have the fans in the wrong place, ya need the fans in the cold part of the house moving the cold air out and towards stove room
     
  8. HDRock

    HDRock

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    Well heck might as well buy 2 of em :);)
     
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  9. redneckdan

    redneckdan

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    I will try using fans to push the cold air back to the stove.

    I didn't think it would matter whether I used a fan with duct work to push hot air to the far side or a fan to push cold air back to the stove. Both essentially work the same way. Hot air moves along the ceiling, cold air returns along the floor.

    I will have to do some experimenting.
     
  10. HDRock

    HDRock

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    The thing is cold air is much denser/heavier then warm air therefore much easier to move..
    I am wondering where is your ductwork for moving the hot air, in the Attic under the floor or what, you may be losing a lot of that heat before it gets to where you want it,
     
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  11. redneckdan

    redneckdan

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    Insulated duct in the attic. House is slab on grade.
     
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  12. Sam

    Sam

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    Threw 2 more med-large splits on top of a chit-ton of coals at 11:30pm last night with the living room at 76. Waited for it to mostly char over and closed her back down. Woke up to even more coals in the form of parital logs (nice cigar burn by the looks of it!) at 7 this morning, 71 in the living room and -13 outside. I'd call that a success. Pulled the air open about half way, shut the stove pipe damper about half way, and by the time I left at 8 it was back up to 74 without anymore wood added. I'll be back home at 10:30am to take the BIL and his fiance to the airport so I'll reload then probably, depending on the coal and temp situation! :)
     
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  13. Backwoods Savage

    Backwoods Savage Moderator

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    HD is right. It does matter a lot where the fans are placed and they also should be run on low speed. And this part about cold air being denser, yes and it is why it is difficult to push warm air through it. The warm is trying to push the cool and it don't work well at all that way.

    Here is the fan we use when we need it. I don't remember the fan size but can tell you it is less than 6". With our old stove we used it a lot but the fireview is a radiant stove and the back of the house is not much cooler than the stove room.
    Vornado fan.jpg
     
  14. Sam

    Sam

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    Got home tonight to the living room at 80 with PLENTY of coals. I threw one bigazz split in at 1030am and I could still tell where it was sitting tonight. I didn't even open the door before I left for the HS choir concert. We'll see where everything is at when I get home around 730. I suspect I'll be burning down coals for the balance of the evening and reloading on a mountain of coals around 10pm. Pics of the wood cart to follow for a split count!
     
  15. Sam

    Sam

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    Hear I sit tonight, a total of that one single big split loaded at about 1030am. Stt of right around 200f and a living room temp of 75. I've been burning these coals down since I first got home at 5pm. I'm attributing a big part of it to the turn in the weather to the better with it sitting right around 19 now with a pretty decent breeze from the south. Supposed to get up to 30 tomorrow. image.jpg
     
  16. HDRock

    HDRock

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    So! how do you like the stove all together?
    And how do you like the bypass I never had a stove with one
    are you still running your Deka 24 7?
     
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  17. Sam

    Sam

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    I'm liking the stove a lot HD. The bypass is necessary at least on my setup, otherwise I'd have severe smoke spillage. As it is that's currently my only complaint, I get spillage if I leave the door too far open for too long. I also get a back-puff of smoke (really just the smell) if I close it down all the way too early in the burn. I'm thinking that if I left this stove in the living room that I'd probably want another 2-3' of class A on my chimney to increase the draft just a bit, especially in the warmer weather. It seems like it doesn't pull quite strong enough to keep the secondaries engaged even when everything is well up to temp. If I pull the primary air out just a bit then I can get flames in the firebox again but they don't have the intensity like it does at the very beginning of the secondary burn. I was thinking that with the secondary air unrestricted that it should pull as hard as it wants too based on the draft of the chimney and that's what made the secondaries "work". Does that sound correct or am I over-analyzing the situation?

    I'm still burning the Daka 24/7 just because I haven't figured out a good way to keep the basement comfortable while not roasting the living room occupants. I struggle with the same situation that redneckdan has of moving the warm air. All the cold air readily falls into the basement and the main floor cooks even with the furnace (LP) fan on constantly to circulate it.
     
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  18. Sam

    Sam

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    I almost forgot that I was going to ask you guys; do you think I need to seal (with furnace cement or hi-temp RTV) the black pipe joints in my chimney? Would it help my draw appreciably?
     
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  19. Stinny

    Stinny

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    Until this winter, I'd never even thought about sealing my smoke pipe joints. Last year and the year before, we had a Old Mill stove. When the winds blew, even a little, you could hear the air being sucked in and around all of the joints. The thimble too. When we bought the Liberty, I knew a "balanced" draw on the flue was important or the stove wasn't gonna operate right. I sealed every joint with hi temp silicone when I installed a new 6" pipe. What a difference. No air leaks at all and the stove does fine even in howling winds with a 18' high- 8"x8" flue size.
     
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  20. cribbed ends

    cribbed ends

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    Sounds like it takes longer for your coals to burn down, than it does with my setup. I have about 28' of 8"x8" clay flue venting mine. I do not have a stove pipe damper in the single wall on mine.