365 X-Torq Repair and Questions

I picked up this saw yesterday knowing it had a leaky oiler and no multi-tool or scabbard.

The saw started and ran fine and had a new carb so I took it as-is.

I think I have the oil leak pinpointed - a broken section of housing near the oiler adjust bolt. I guess someone overtightened it and it snapped.

The bigger surprise is the damage under the clutch cover. It looks like the chain got loose and rubbed on both sides. I have a new clutch cover and oiler cover plate on the way.

So here are my questions:
1) What is a good way to clean up all of this oily dirt? A lot of it is plastic so I suspect not every solvent is safe.
2) Any idea what caused all the damage under the clutch cover?
3) Is the wear at the end of the bar going to be a problem?
4) Is there anything else important to do "while I'm in there"?
5) A rubber bushing dropped out when I separated the fuel tank from the engine housing. Anyone know what it is and where it should be reassembled?

Thanks in advance.

 

No bumper guards on the clutch cover or rubber deflector is what let a chain rub the housings like that.

 

Are you sure? With a properly tensioned chain, it would have to be out of the sprocket to get that far out.

 

It was probably more from thrown chains and nothing in there to soften the blow.

 

That certainly would make sense. The chain catcher is completely missing. (And of course I'll replace it)

 

he's talking about the little plastic chain guides that snap in the cover, a loose chain will rub the cover and the case raw when they are missing. they go on the clutch cover, below the bar stud holes.

The chain catcher is for catching broken chains, It will not protect the saw from loose or thrown chains from being loose or twisted off the sprocket. the rear chip guard that is also missing will protect the cover from being broken on the backside when a chain is thrown.

I'm not seeing anywhere on the case where it is broken from the pics. All that mess is normal and the damage looks on par with loose chains and thrown chains. I'm pretty sure all of mine look like that too, as far as the oil plate and cover marks go.

 

The bar is toast - get a new one

 

What you say...

... and what I hear ... "Get a brand-new 28" bar and chains"

Freak, I haven't run my other saw for many tanks but my chain's never rubbed anything. I check tension pretty regularly. I guess not everyone else does.

 

Personally never had a chain jump off but maybe my turn is coming?

But with the many used saws I have acquired, they have all had the chain jump many times. I guess some people do not give it enough attention?

 

If you bore cut a lot with the tip buried or do a lot of limbing in tiny brush it seems is when it will throw them more often than regular cutting.

 

yup. I haven thrown a ton, but a couple here and here over the years. bore cuts seem to be harder on bars and chains. its the nature of the beast, I guess.

that's good! And I hope you continue that. most of my saws are used beat up logger saws that I've rebuilt so I can't say for certain what has happened but with as many I as I had I see a pattern, doesn't matter the brand. people abuse chains and bars and are very lazy to tighten and sharpen chains... leaning on a dull chain that is loose, creates more heat and will stretch, I've seen guys I cut with throw chains in very short time with dull chains...

now, while you have that saw apart, are you turning it into a 372? its a five minute "fix"

 

One step ahead of you...does this mean I should order 372 XP stickers with my parts order?

At this point it should be clear that I know nothing about small engine repair. I'm just taking this thing apart, watching youtube videos, and reading the manual. I really hope it goes back together. I believe I'm looking at a good cylinder and piston, as the vertical lines are barely visible.

 

Your unknown grommet I believe goes between the housing (gas tank and crank case)

 

I would sand those lines by hand with 320 or 600 grit.

 

Edit: I found it. It's piece M-14 on the parts diagram. It goes on a horizontal peg on the main housing and protects against rubbing on a pocket in the fuel tank.

 

I have a like a dozen of the non XT 362, 365 Specials, and 372XP's and only one 365 Special has this bushing (M-14). All the saws except for the one 365 Special were used, run out, and sometimes parts box saws. The straight pin mentioned wobbles around in the cavity in the tank assembly as mentioned. Hasn't really hurt anything. My goal is slowly add the rubber bushing to the AV travel stop busings to my saws as I have them apart. 503 85 73-01

There's another obscure part on these saws including the XT's and it is a very skinny O-ring (N-4) between the bushing on the PTO side of the crankshaft and the PTO bearing. Most saws that have been apart no longer have this skinny O-ring. 503 26 30-19

 

Spent the past week under the weather, but finally felt well enough to resume this project. I've had the parts all week and aside from dropping the bearings on the crankshaft, had done nothing. I opted to change out all of the fuel lines, oil lines, filters, cap seals, crank seals, and whatever was already damaged.

For reassembly of the crankcase I first put the bearings on the crankshaft. I just warmed them with a hot air gun and they dropped on. Then I heated the clutch side housing and the bearing did not drop in very well. I had to drive it in the rest of the way. I learned my lesson on the starter side housing and just put it in the kitchen oven at 300F. It went together pretty well. I used a gasket and a thin layer of Permatex 51813 on both sides of it.

I paid the dealer mechanic to split the case for me. He went a bit further and pulled the bearings too and that very fine o-ring was not in the parts box. I see now that the purpose of that o-ring is to seal the crankcase from leaking between the crankshaft and the sleeve that spaces out the clutch. So instead of the o-ring I used a light layer of grey sealant between the shaft and sleeve.

 

I opted to keep the piston and cylinder. While I do not expect it to have perfect compression, it should last for a while and after buying a new 28" bar and chain my budget did not have room for another $150+. I may regret it, I may not, but changing the jug doesn't scare me.

I'm pleased to say that reassembly went pretty well and I had no major surprises. I just have one stripped screw to replace and tomorrow I'll put in fluids and give it a go.

It really cleaned up nice. With compressed air, seal pick, and paper towels I got nearly all of the crud out of all of the nooks and crannies. I hope it runs as well as it looks.

I went ahead and bought the 372xp sticker, couldn't resist.

 

Looks like you are doing pretty darn well for someone who knows nothing about small engine repair! Cheers!