Have been getting very upset reading threads about installing stove and then drilling new holes for oak when these items have been readily availible for many years.There are wall thimbles with oak to fit the normal size holes(7 1/2x7 1/2 and the 9 whatever) Do your reasearch!Yes the cheap thimble gets you there,but for less than 300 dollars you only have 1 hole in wall,no double labor or expenses! No wasted space.
I am not willing to spend that much Bob thats all it as in my case. I was given a lot of selkirk VP.. In order to install a thimble with oak would have required a much more expensive thimble and a different pipe for silkerk. Basically I just stuck with what I had. If I hadnt been given so much pipe I would have used the same system as Dex uses.....
I put my OAK in for about $60. I had one of the pipes made at an auto exhaust shop. What I did was make a mock up out of cheap pvc, to it to the shop and the duplicated it with metal. Simple.
My OAK for the Wood stove and Pellet furnace were less than $35 a piece. My Selkirk DT system for the Enerzone? Much, much, more. For the average person, a DIY kit is all you need. That Thimble with the OAK is over $100 by itself.
OK I stand corrected on some items.But the duravent and icc thimbles use same size pipe.A reg thimble is 70,and I paid 170 to go through the same size hole.4cas-wtpk.And I only had to do it once.But I'm with pet,he was given pipe,I would go that way.As far as 343.we are talking about thimbles and drilling more holes in wall.
I think it's a nice wall thimble too. It's not always practical though. Some manufacturers spec hard pipe be used for an OAK, such as copper or steel pipe. That would make this unit much harder to work with. The only other problem I have with it is that if you are doing a straight through the wall termination, the termination cap is not within an acceptable distance away from the OAK, so you need to add even more money to put a tee on the outside and go up from there... In the out, up and out or out up and all the way up and only requiring a flex intake, it's perfect.
Just saw this(been busy),I have never seen a mfg require solid pipe unless it is going through the wall by itself?Also,if you check the mfg sites on incorporated oak thimbles,if the flue extends 1 foot past the air intake,good to go.And s most stove mfgs manuals refer to "however refer to your vent suppliers reccomenations".I have seen this 4 foot thing blown out of porpotion,harman even sells an incorporated unit.Not picking on you,but did a lot of research over the last 9 months,will try to post a new install in my living room(tomorrow,maybe) and a lot of people will say"illegal" but it is not.
It's all good, even after doing this since I was 18 (I'm 33 now) I learn something new every day even with the manufacturers I've known for years. This industry is a perpetual learning experience even with NFI certs in pellet, wood and gas! I know that my Vistaflame specified hard pipe as the oak and made no mention whatsoever of being able to use aluminum flex. They didn't say you COULDN'T but they didn't say you can, which is what I go off of as a generality. Inspectors look at the same documentation and IME rarely break out the true code book. Around here you see their trucks with 5 year old ladders where the only scuffs you see are the ones from bouncing on the ladder rack lol.
Most Manufacturer's use a flex pipe for their OAK kit. Looking forward to your pics. My Enerzone is less than 4 ft from a window (by inches). My insurance lady trusts me and my installs. She has offered to pay me as a third party to go look over other installs, because I am so thorough with her.
I wonder about stuff like this too. We had one where I was the messenger (and installer) recently where we were about 39" from a window, an operable window. As a precaution I stubbed the horizontal vent out 24" from the house. By tape measure we had more than the required 48" from the window and even though the county inspector argued with me, I won overall due to the measurements. I sometimes wish they went more in depth with all of these rules, it would make my job a lot easier! AFAIK, my install may not have been approved by the manufacturer.
Like the ladder thing!Typical gov worthless employees!But when the stove mfgs sell oaks with aluminum flexible for oak?On this forum and "the other" there are people using pvc.If they had ever thrown a section in a campfire and smelled it,they would have other thoughts!The install in my living room has 1 section of aluminum(duravent,came with kit)very heavy duty,odd size outside dia.,with a section of 3" dryer/air vent,with a aluminum expandable section(about 7 foot)and all to code(not the cheap lightweight dryer vent crap,you have to go by the specs.smoke/flame leakage.If you really wanted to get fancy you could buy brake air duct tubing(nascar) higher heat rating and more flexible.Just ranting and having a beer,here.Got another window ready for an inside storm window,will finish tomorow.
Yeah, the flex the duravent kits come with is definitely HD compared to any dryer duct, in fact it seems just as good as the vent pipe we use for our direct vent inserts. I'm not worried about it's durability, just what the inspector says when they read the manual (if they do) HA. This is just in some cases, not too many. Yeah, the ladder thing kills me, I almost want to trade them because they have better ladders than I do and they DONT USE THEM
