Any special considerations for burning oak?

My MM arrived So I tested three pieces of wood.

Here is one sample piece that I split apart. It was one of the bigger pieces I had.


Depending upon where I stabbed on the inside, it ranged from 19-21%. So using the base "20%" mentioned earlier, this is close. Another piece was near 27%... and a third piece was down at 9-10%. The one that was near 27% was very white/red. The 10% one was a bit darker than the above but not completely brown/black.

So it appears at least one battle is hitting and missing on "seasoned" wood

I still have about 1/2 the pile left to stack. So would a valid approach to "salvage" this load to do the following:

• Split wood in half and check moisture content
• If 20% or less, put it to my burn stack.
• If more than 20%, put it into long term stack.

I understand that by splitting the wood into smaller parts, I will loose the longevity of my burns.

I currently don't have the capacity to another 2 cords of wood so trying to track down a replacement load isn't in the stars right now

 

WOW I can't believe that nice pink red oak averages in the mid 20's. That's great news. I started my first year with an EPA stove right where you're at. It's not great but very manageable. You should make it through the winter OK, just start working on next years supply now and you will be good to go.

Expect slower start ups, more chimney sweeping, dirtier glass and higher wood consumption. All in all not bad for a first season burner. Stick with it and it's all down hill from here.

 

Lil John if you are getting those types of readings out of that oak you should be fine using that stuff. I wouldn't waste all that time splitting smaller even mid 20's should do ok just a little sizzle. I think Basod may be on to some of your issue with getting some pre heat in there with a torch and the warmer outside temps are surely hurting your draw. I would see if you could get that stack up a bit higher.

 

We must have the same couch!

 

Well, alrighty, some of that is useable. If the tree was standing dead long enough, the wood can be getting somewhat dry, even though it hasn't been split. You may be able to get an idea how dry a split is without re-splitting and testing. You will start to develop a feel for the heft of it, it should feel somewhat light (this will vary with different species.) You can also knock a couple of splits together, dry wood will "ring like a bell," but probably none of that load is that dry (except the 10% stuff.) Anything up to 22% or so should burn, although it might take a bit longer to get going. You may not be able to get away with this, but one year I stacked some White Ash in the house with a fan blowing on it. It went from 25, down to 20% in a couple of weeks. I'm not sure if it would work as well with Oak?

 

Oh, and it was split small, like 3".

 

Thank you for the replies. It sounds like I may be in luck... barely.

Here is a picture of the three test pieces. In the picture, the left side is the inside of the split while the right side is the outside.


It sounds like if I pick browner pieces, I get in the 10% range while the grayish will be 20%. I should avoid the pink ones this year.

When burning the "wetter" wood, should I leave the air control a little bit out to ensure it burns a bit hotter/better?

Also, because I am running wetter wood, should I get the flue cleaned middle of the season?

For next season, if I had gotten this load in May, would the moisture content be better by now?

 

I clean my flue probably about 3 to 4 times a year just out of habit but I do it myself as well.

 

Nice touch, putting both sides in for us to see. That's good news. Most of us Hear/have so many wet Oak stories, we sometimes assume the outcome is gonna be bad. I think your drier climate may have helped you. The earlier you can get next years wood, the better. And I would use the same guy, tell him that you measured the moisture, were generally happy with what you found, and want more of the same.

If you have to use a wet one, load it on a good coal bed so it's easier to burn off the moisture and get it going.

Keep a close eye on it. Find a way to inspect the flue often until you know what you are dealing with, then clean accordingly.

 

Yes on the mid season flu cleaning.

A solar kiln on the 20%+ wood might get it burnable by mid/late winter depending on how much sun it can get
http://firewoodhoardersclub.com/forums/index.php?threads/solar-kiln-firewood-drying.6041/

 

Okay. Why? A teaspoon or two on cold burnables is certainly no more of a threat than 1/4 "super cedar" IMO. In fact, it works great. I use a dish detergent bottle, and trickle a small amount on top. Only when cold. That's never given me the slightest inducement to paranoia, ever. Slightly better accelerant than rumpled newspaper.

The kero in question has been used for parts cleaning, mainly saw chains. So it does have a bit of b&c oil mixed in, too. Not talking gasoline.

Top-down just takes a wee bit longer with non-super-dry wood. Either way, greatly reduces neighborhood aerial schmutz. Give it air.

 

Took down 3 mighty 3 year standing dead oaks this year, they are some of the wettest I have ever dealt with. Pegged the Meter head to toe, bought two more honest cords Of oak that went 28 percent.
So I have seven cords of useless wood this year...did take down a cord and a half of ash, have that for shoulder wood. Probably buy eco bricks to get buy this year. Last year I burned my two year Wood supply up....rough winter.
Yanking out the old Garrison one stove and hope the new Ideal steel will slow down my consumption!

 

The wetter pieces will burn fine on a hot coal bed - this will be when you(and myself) get out of the shoulder season. Load them ~30-40mins before bedtime on a hot coal load with some smaller splits wide open air for 15-20mins and slowly choke the air down before bed - you'll be in secondary territory here (blue flames in the top/black coaling looking wood in the bottom)

Your flue is not that high, if you have a ladder and are inclined to DIY sweeping the flue is a 20-30min project - the way the baffle redirects the flame on the Clydesdale you have a reduced probability of chimney fire, likely you'll find a dry soot pile sitting on the ceramic baffle. If you need help on dropping the baffle I can give you some tips

As far as seasoning oak, another summer stacked it would be better seasoned. Your climate may be conducive to 2yr on oak. Thinking forward try to get a mix of some softer woods(pine/maple/whatever predominant) softwood you have in your area. Those woods are much better burning during this time of year & season faster, you may find you burn through a cord or less of oak a year in the cold snaps but use 1-2cords of shoulder woods for the shoulder season - this is not to say you don't burn oak in the shoulder season - you just burn it after the stove is hot on pine/maple/poplar and need some overnight heat.

I burned some oak with maple, winged elm, cypress, last night - 42F this am, nice 78F in the house

 

yes mutually the same.
Some folks would consider a chimney as a masonry structure - the flue contained within as chimney tiles.
Most everyone running a stove has a liner inside the chimney or double wall chimney pipe - considered a flue

 

welcome aboard Whalen - we've all been there in the first and second years.
Last winter probably bit into everyone's wood supply, myself included - burned 2/3cord extra of oak, that was stacked for 2yrs.
Nobody will shun you for burning less than marginal wood around here, we encourage(and hope to inspire through the use of pictures) everyone to get to a point where these tactics of combustion are not necessary to heat one's home it's teamwork

 

Thanks for even more good information.

Uncle Augie, unfortunately, I'm down in a nice shady ravine affectionately known as pneumonia gulch. So I'm a bit out of luck with trying a solar kiln.

I am currently making an attempt at a fire trying the method basod described for the most part.

For kindling, I split oak that had lower moisture content into smaller pieces. I also Benzo'd the front of the stove.

So far, it didn't completely smoke me out and appears to be doing okay(~1 hour going now) I just tossed two pieces on that were ~2x2.

Before I call it a complete success, I'll be tinkering a bit and making sure I can duplicate starting.

 

Thanks for the "Warm" welcome here! Looking forward to seasoning in the oak and getting several years ahead again. Sure can smell the fresh oak downwind of the pile.
I still have 2 massive oaks to fell next year, but I am going to buy more in the spring when I usualy lay in my wood.