In loving memory of Kenis D. Keathley 6/4/81 - 3/27/22 Loving father, husband, brother, friend and firewood hoarder Rest in peace, Dexterday

If it ain't one thing, it's another.

Discussion in 'Chainsaws and Power Equipment' started by Chilidawg, Oct 9, 2023.

  1. Chilidawg

    Chilidawg

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    My Stihl MS-291 stated giving me clutch problems this afternoon while getting a small roadside scrounge. The clutch drum would not disengage from the RH end of the crankshaft.

    I disassembled the drum and found that the needle bearing between the drum and crank had grenaded but there doesn't appear to be any scoring of the crankshaft. Tomorrow I'll start the rounds of the nearby Stihl dealers and see if I can source a drum and a bearing.

    Anyone else experienced this?

    I'm just venting.
     
  2. Eggshooterist

    Eggshooterist

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    I haven't but I've gotten a used saw that the crank was ruined from a similar situation. I grease mine at least yearly or more depending on how much I use them. I rotate through several saws so yearly is enough for many of mine.
     
  3. brenndatomu

    brenndatomu

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    Yep, that bearing has to be greased once in a while...
     
  4. Eggshooterist

    Eggshooterist

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    I do like the grease through crankshaft deal on the Husqvarna 543xp / RedMax 4350 saws I have. No removing the clutch to grease.
     
  5. The Wood Wolverine

    The Wood Wolverine

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    Couple of my Husky’s have a hole in the end of the crank. I use the bar tip grease gun periodically and push 2 pumps of grease in and it directs it right to that bearing.
     
  6. Ronaldo

    Ronaldo

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    Love that feature. Wish they were all made that way.

    Sent from my SM-S536DL using Tapatalk
     
  7. Eggshooterist

    Eggshooterist

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    I agree. I'm not sure why they aren't.
     
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  8. Screwloose

    Screwloose

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    Interesting
    Not really a disaster to add the hole.
    Although it's good idea to take a look at the inside of the clutch at the same interval as greasing is due.
     
  9. Skier76

    Skier76

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    Well, this thread prompted me to put “check clutch” on my to do list for my 14 year old saw….
     
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  10. 38f20

    38f20

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    I had to rebuild the clutch on a friend’s 361, same thing happened. I had to pull all of the needles out before I could pull the drum. I was surprised that the clutch bearing had a plastic cage, the replacement was steel. I’m thinking oem was $15:00.
     
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  11. Chilidawg

    Chilidawg

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    I'd gladly pay that if it meant longer life. As it stands, I've yet to source the parts but I'm thinkin' I may keep a couple spare bearings on hand and clean/inspect/grease every time I clean the rest of the saw.

    Thank you all for your input.
     
  12. buZZsaw BRAD

    buZZsaw BRAD

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    The needle bearings went on my MS 290 years back. (precursor to the 291) My cut came to a screeching halt like yours as the saw seized and starter rope wouldnt budge. Thought the saw was toast, but after some research i found it a common problem for a high hours saw like mine. I think it was a $15 part at dealer and i was back in business. Have since sold it, but otherwise a very reliable saw.
     
    Last edited: Oct 14, 2023
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  13. Chilidawg

    Chilidawg

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    I'm fixing it myself and parts should be here next week. The dealer had the clutch drum but no bearings in stock despite what their inventory showed. That suggests it is a common problem.
     
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  14. buZZsaw BRAD

    buZZsaw BRAD

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    Does your 291 have high hours? I never really figured it out on mine but the paint on the original bar was almost worn off. It was my main use saw for several years so it owed me nothing when i sold it.
    Pic from June 2020. IMG_2707.JPG
     
    Last edited: Oct 14, 2023
  15. Chilidawg

    Chilidawg

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    Mine doesn't have that many hours but the paint on the bar didn't seem to be very durable. Hopefully it'll be up and running again next week. I ordered 2 bearings so there will be a spare in the toolbox.
     
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