Compression, spark plug color, bar wear, sprocket wear, chain brake function, how well it runs and idles, saggy av mounts. That should be a good start. You should be able to hold the saw by the rope for at least a few seconds without it falling down. The plug should be a nice light brown color. Make a cut with it and see if it cuts straight.
To get a true, accurate reading, yes, you would need a compression gauge. One for small engines too, not automotive. You can get a "feel" for it by how easily the saw turns over, you want some resistance. And like was said, holding the saw by just the pull rope, the weight of the saw should be held by compression and not fall right away.
Yea, like a $20 one off Amazon is all they cost. I think you can even borrow one for a deposit from like advance or AutoZone. Very fast and simple. If they let you I would pull the muffler and look for scratches, it's obviously the hot side and farthest from the oil and scuffs first. Now I have bought saws with little checking, but they were such a good deal it didn't matter if the cylinder or piston was toast . Also gauge the person your buying it from. If you go to their house is it a dump and not cared for, meet in a parking lot is their car near and clean and running well. I'm not saying new or close to new but is it all smashed up sounds like they have neglected repairs running weird. Is their Fab or wherever you found them if that's where full of beat up stuff hard riding folks or someone who takes pride in their stuff. The person selling it usually can tell you a lot about how well it was cared for, used and the condition it may be in.
To do it right, yes...but the test that was mentioned is a quick n dirty test for chainsaws, if you don't have a gauge handy...not 100% reliable though...could have a long bar making it weigh more (drop faster) or a bad bearing, making it drop slower...but its still one more test to keep in your quiver of "ways to evaluate a used saw".
Yes your correct....I just glanced over this part. Its like you said ok. But you still can have the saw hang by the rope and have scratched piston. But the most part it is a decent test to do. If you do the drop test and can look through the exhaust port you have looked it over pretty good especially if the clutch and recoil side don't have play.
Look for the STIHL label All kidding aside, i look for overall condition. Is it well cared for, used sparingly. Original owner saws are a plus as they havent been "hastily" rebuilt, messed with etc. Ive seen plenty of pro model saws owned by homeowners that are sweet. I see them fairly regularly on FBM. I only jump when its a REALLY good deal. Look for paint wear on the bar. Not always the best way to guage but gives a general idea how much the saw was used. When i sold my 290 a couple years ago it had the original 16" bar with almost no paint. Ran fine and i sold it for $200 and it went rather quick.
true, they are a magnet. I’ve bought a lot of used saws. Far and away to build and keep or flip, so completeness, brokenness and price are what focus on. I have bought a couple, maybe just one, used for running out of the gate. For the money to spend a good saw that runs out of the gate, I want run it and cut with it. Get it hot and shut it down and start it again. Hold it upside down, sideways, etc. let it sit a idle. If your spending real $$, what ever that means, you shouldn’t have to guess or take the chance. And know that what ever your buying is likely closer to needing important maintenance than a brand new one, even if it runs mint.
Sometimes a saw needing repairs is the better deal. Put a add up at your local gas station and see what turns up. Buying a saw from someone who is not actively selling can be a good thing.
buying a saw that needs repair, I find is the best deal. If your patient, you can get killer deals. And for about $100 more you can turn some ones boat anchor into a born again runner. Not counting smashed or scored beyond repair cylinders. Rule of thumb.
Lot of great advice already. One thing I haven't seen is, if you can, pull the muffler and look at the piston. If there is scoring, at least a new piston/ring. If it's bad, could need a complete new top end. Also gives you the opportunity to inspect for OEM parts vs cheap chinese. As Brad mentioned, I too notice if the bar paint has been burned off. That could be an indicator the previous owner ran the saw with a dull chain, which is hard on a saw. The heat created can migrate into the crank seal and shorten its life, among other things.
Definitely! I've hit 2 homeruns this way. First, a Stihl friend sold me a Husky394 in a box for $100. Another $150 in parts and I had a runner. And a Squeal 038 mag in a box for cheap. Only needed piston/rings and a few smalls. Made a good amount on that one, cuz creamsicles are for polishing and selling. Flipped a bunch more but not nearly as memorable as those.
All good suggestions here one thing not mentioned is the new auto tune or in the case of the 500 I you have electronics to deal with try to run and check hot starting a lot of electronics have issues when hot . as with buying anything used there is always a reason for the sale I am always a little suspect of " Like new hardly used " high dollar saws most of the time someone does not buy a big expensive saw and lightly use it Good luck JB
Checking for Chinese parts hadn't been mentioned but pulling the muffler has been . But yea this is a good plan. If a person is iffy about it it may be a sign to run...or they literally know nothing and think you don't know what your doing or will tear it up.
There is always the guy that has to have the biggest and best to one up the next guy. A guy here in town has the "biggest homeowner Stihl saw" they make and has either a 32" or 36" "blade" on it. Why.... because of the reason I stated I guess. Maybe he needed it to cut up a huge tree? I don't know the last decade or more he lives the same almost 2 acre property with very few trees and he doesn't burn wood...even in his yard?
Just an opinion here but I'm betting that the economy is going to go poopie rather soon. So a LOT of impulse purchases will go up for sale. Also if a 500I is what you are after and you plan on using it for income work way in just how much more wood you'd need to sell to justify a new warranted saw. Downtime has a cost as does out of warranty repairs, travel back and forth to the mechanic ect.
