A 6-year-old Countyline 25ton acting up, considering just buying an entire replacement carb since after-market ones are so cheap. Can anyone recommend a decent source or a particular brand/model or what do you think? No-start diagnoses so far have not fixed it and found a bunch of corrosion in bottom of bowl, am suspicious of a fix and really need this splitter going. Yes, have always used e-free gas and have done regular maintenance. Of course, I am not entirely sure it is the carb, that is a fact but it was getting spark.
Not that I can find. Including watching a video that showed three examples and my Kohler 6.5hp motor looks like none of them. Others have mentioned the low oil cutoff possibility. I thought it might be low, added oil, added too much, then drained it to be correct. All this started from... the splitter was cranked from cold, ran less than a minute, went dead. Started twice more, went dead. Now, won't start. Fuel looks fine, has always been e-free, I saw no water in it.
I have used aftermarket carbs on a number of small engine machines with great results as opposed to doing carb rebuilds. I always use Amazon with no particular manufacturer in mind. Just be sure to keep your original carburetor and match the aftermarket up to it before you install.
Can you pour a tiny amount of fuel into the spark plug and see if it starts? If so it could be the carb just needs a cleaning (internal screen clogged) or maybe something is amiss with the fuel line/filter.
Could be ice somewhere in it somewhere of it's cold enough where you are. I would dump some gas right in the spark plug hole and try it to narrow down the carb issue. If it doesn't run you should check compression. You could have some sort of valve issue which you could check by removing the valve cover. The carb should be relatively simple to clean before buying a new one.
I agree it sounds like the carb , have you tried putting a drip of gas in the carb or spark plug hole and try to start it? if it runs fine until the drip is used up it's the carb . if doing the carb replace the fuel line as well. if it won't start on gas in the carb but has spark check the flywheel key , if sheared it will be out of timing.
I bought a cheap carb off Amazon last winter for my snowblower with a 10 horse Tecumseh engine and it worked great.
I put a new plug in, it has good spark. No start. Then put a little gas into the spark plug hole, no start. Put a little starter fluid into the air intake, no start. (The above "no start" means it didn't hit at all.) Have not checked valves. Have not checked flywheel key. Will have to research this because it's been decades since I have been that far into a small engine and I will have to familiarize myself with the innards again.
Before you get carried away, take the air cleaner off, pour a teaspoon or so of gasoline down its guzzle, see if it will pop...I assume you replaced the second broken plug already?
I bought a multi-fuel [ gas, LP , natural gas ] after market carb for a generator my son had that sat for 5 years with gas in it. Ran it for 9 days straight at deer camp on gas and LP , never missed a beat. Best 35 dollars I have spent.
Yes, when I said I "put a new plug in" I meant the 2nd time. Brand new plug. In fact, bought two in case I break this one, lol. Ok, I poured gas into the air intake as you said, still nothing. I assume that I should use the normal start procedure after dumping a little gas in there. (Gas supply lever on, choke on, throttle open but not full throttle. And red start switch on, obviously!) EDIT: Let me ask... this motor feels a little hard to turn over now. Is that a flywheel problem symptom? It just feels a bit hard to pull. I might be imagining it but I thought I better mention it.
I'd probably leave the choke off, at least until it pops...and half throttle or more. Pull it over a few times and see if it gets easier to pull after the raw gas dissipates. Also, is it colder there today? Cold temps will make them much more difficult to turn over since the hydraulic pump is pumping that thicker oil...
Yes, you're right, it is probably just the colder temp. What would you look for with valves? How to diagnose that? I am going to completely remove the carb now and clean it best I can before I go deeper.
valves have to be spaced with a feeler gauge to open and close right .google a YouTube video for your motor type. you have spark right ? did you check the fly wheel key ? key must be in line with the keyway , if sheared it is out of timing and won't run.
Hurrah! Got it running and is running great! I took the carb apart best I could and cleaned everything with gasoline and carb cleaner and reassembled, started first pull. This is probably an ignorant question but does this make sense, that the carb was malfunctioning, what with the symptoms I have reported? (Had spark, just wouldn't hit a lick after it died on my worker that last time. Nothing I tried got it to ever hit. Not sure I understand why it didn't hit at all with a little gas poured into the cylinder through the spark plug hole.)
Sounds like you may have severely flooded it pouring gas here and there. Pretty puzzling why it wouldn't pop on either(starting fluid), that stuff usually gets stuff making noise, even if for a very short time. But for whatever reason, good to hear you are back up and running.
