Putting a new Lopi Evergreen and I’m trying to figure out if I need an outside air kit. My house will have spray foam insulation and new windows so it will be pretty air tight. I’m worried the stove wont draw well. My stove will be around 15’ from an outside wall. Is this too long for it to pull in air? Any downsides with an Outside Air kit?
The air has to come in the house for the chimney to work properly. It sounds like you should plan for an OAK. Yes the stove will "pull" air from any opening.
I agree with PAMM. If you have a tight house, an OAK is a huge help. I have one on my wood furnace because my home is new construction. I also have one on my open fireplace. Both would not perform as advertised without them. I also agree that your distance is a non issue.
I have one, like the idea, and it was required to pass my inspection. Why wouldn’t you want to burn outside air? The alternative is to suck out the heated indoor air which will be replaced by dirty, dry, cold air from outside. Some stoves are much more effective at using an outside air connection where 100% of combustion air comes through the OAK connection but many stoves only feed like one of 4 air inlets from the oak and the rest suck room air.
Do you have a way that an OAK could be hooked direct to the stove? Like running the tubing in the basement and then coming up under the stove for the direct connect?
I'm all for installing one. We have the opposite of a tight house. Stove is in back ell kitchen attached to main house. We have stack effect. Dryer is in back mudroom, kitchen hood is vented, large old leaky windows... When I built the hearth last year, I planned it to be able to drill down through the floor without hitting anything. I only worry about wind gust pushing air in, but the termination should be down wind. It will be about 15 feet long. Just be careful that you insulate it a few feet in from the outside wall to reduce condensation. One member here used armorflex to wrap it.
This brings up a valid point that I hadn't considered. Will the OAK be direct connect or just a pipe through the wall?
I don't have one (my house is like a sieve), but with spray foam insulation, I'd plan on having an OAK.
Yes, Lopi makes a kit that runs directly into the stove. It would run from the stove through the floor into the basement and then through the outside wall. I’m new to stoves/fireplaces, so I want to make sure it is done correctly.
Better to have it and not need it than need it and not have it. Course someone with two wives might use the same argument. Some of them are rather flimsy, depending on your mass, you might not want to stand on it.
Stick around here and the combined experience of FHC members will git r dun right and spare no expense. We like spendin members money. Please post progress pictures. I've heard we like pics.
A cracked open window will do the same and should you not need it, then close the window. I suppose in your situation you might want/need one, but I never liked the idea of them myself. I have my reasons, but I don’t owe anyone any explanation.
I keep a bedroom window cracked no matter what the temp. and my house is old (1800's) with air leaks so I won't be getting one with my new Ideal.
Let’s not forget the fact the some manufacturers jumped on the band wagon for OAC’s and some who did have since jumped off...they decided against them. That is the research I found, but don’t ask me who it was as it’s been awhile and I have since forgotten because it wasn’t a concern for me. However, regardless of that, every home/stove/venting combination is different and many realize that fact.
A non-commercial service in support of responsible home heating with wood - The Outdoor Air Myth Exposed The Outdoor Air Myth Exposed Outdoor combustion air was a good idea . . . until it was studied Photos unrelated to the OAK discussion. Secondary combustion in a Jotul F600CB that I've had about 20 years now. No flash in all but the first photo.
