Got my second 300trx a month ago.

Got this for free from my cousin. It's been sitting for I bet at least 5 years. Tank full of rust, rusted through rim. Sun killed fenders.

I have cleaned the carb 2x, but still not right. Got a ton of rust out of the tank, wended up the rim, mounted that tire, painted that rim. I have 3 more to go now. New battery and it cranked right up. Also new petcock the old was crammed with crud.

 

Those things are some tough ole SOB's...price was right too!

 

Nice work.. Love the price.

 

Armor All will spruce those fenders up for a bit...Wipe New will do even better for much longer!
https://www.walmart.com/ip/WIPE-NEW/183141315

 

Can't wipe what's not there.

Look close on the fronts. The black flares are busted off. The rears are non existent!

 

Oh, I thought you meant that the fenders were sun faded (the fenders are green...the black part is a flare, or extension )

 

Got me, I guess I wasn't paying close enough attention to what I even wrote! You are correct. The fenders are there and intact. The flares so much.

 

Can't beat free!!

 

Some folks don't care about their stuff. They watch it go down hill a little at a time and just don't care. A $5 tarp once a year would of kept it 10x better condition.

 

I plan on taking a wire wheel to the racks and then putting some card board under them and painting with rust converter and then top coating with Rust-Oleum, to give the rack some protection and just better looks.

This thing won't ever look great. Too much neglect and replacement plastic is just too expensive.

I have been thinking of ways to make alternative flares if I chose to do so.

I have a seat cover ordered for it. Back says Honda and sides are black and top is Camo.

My son claimed this one as soon as he saw it on my trailer.

 

It doesn't need to look great, just so long as it runs good.

Can't beat the price

 

Just wondering if some car or truck fender flares might work. Saw some on amazon.

 

I've seen people make them out of beltline material, or semi truck mud flaps...

 

I plan on taking a wire wheel to the racks and then putting some card board under them and painting with rust converter and then top coating with Rust-Oleum, to give the rack some protection and just better looks.

This thing won't ever look great. Too much neglect and replacement plastic is just too expensive.

I have been thinking of ways to make alternative flares if I chose to do so.

I have a seat cover ordered for it. Back says Honda and sides are black and top is Camo.

My son claimed this one as soon as he saw it on my trailer.

That was one thought, saw that on YouTube, also saw a guy I think mention useing that flexible garden border? And to the guy above you who posted, I had also thought about some generic roll fender flare material off eBay or Amazon and use existing mounting spots for it.

I probably will end up getting some floor boards for this since the heal gaurds are pretty much gone and to replace just those would be about half way to floorboards. And also I think it might help my son to have a larger place to set his feet and less chance to push them off the peg accidentally.

 

Got the other 3 wheels wire wheeled off and rust converter on them ready for paint tomorrow. This is just a quick brush Rust-Oleum paint job. Good from 5 foot, perfect for a rider ATV. Easy to touch up also.

Also changed the oil, and rear end oil. Cleaned up an old master cylinder I had around to swap onto this one. Need to pull front drums and make sure wheel cylinders are free as well as shoes.

Dan it a few miles today and it now ideles perfect. I guess whatever bit of crud in the idle jet cleared up cause now it will idle fine without half choke.

 

Great price! Those old 300 TRX are a glutton for punishment.

 

Here is a pic of the rims after I white wheeled them and painted with Corroseal (my choice of rust converter) I like the stuff. A gallon is expensive but it goes a long way. Used in the marine industry on metal. I have some stuff done for a few years now and am pleased with results. I try to do it as best I can for quick work. Seems a quality product. Honestly the price is still cheaper than the spray can stuff and the distance it will stretch considering that stuff if $6-10 a can. And a gallon is around $50 of corroseal.

About to put paint on the wheels now. Pulled one front brake apart. Pulled wheel cylinders apart to clean them and gone cylinder and reassemble hoping to avoid buying those. There full of crud and rust.

 

I replaced the master cylinder bwitha Chinese special from Amazon. I tried to rebuild it with what was son it and parts I had on hand that were a little better shape. It wouldn't even pass fluid. I cleaned the wheel cylinders and the pushy thingies out of them but the gaskets ripped on reassembly. They were pitted anyway so probably a good thing. I just wasted an hour screwing with them. I got a rebuild kit for them that has everything but the body and rebuilt them. I have working front brakes now. I sanded the drums as they had rust and crud but I didn't get a perfect finish hoping the shoes will wear into them better. If it chews the shoes up, so be it, there pretty rusty too. Bleed them but was by myself. I put the tires on and now I can't do a final bleed without help as I have to reach around the tire. I think I might still have a tad bit of air.

Got a new rear brake lever on for the seized one that I torched and cooked the bushing out of . Lots of time wasted there, especially drilling out the cotter pin that had welded itself in the hole and I broke a drill it and so on and so on.

Recovering the seat as I type this.

Adjusted the clutch this week. Wasn't much slack to take up. It shifts kind of hard. Not sure if that's abuse or from sitting. I'm hoping the latter. I'm running it to try to get fluid through it and cleaning them off since I changed oil and getting them used again. I doubt that clutch has ever been adjusted so I don't think the disks are shot? I don't even know if I turned the screw a half a turn to adjust it.

Runs perfect.

Anyway I will keep an update here.



At some point I'm going to pull the racks off and paint them real quick. One To make them look better but two for rust protection.

I need to pull the muffler off and weld it up. It's split at the seam. At first I just thought it was from age and rust. But it looks a bit swollen. I think what happened was as the carb plugged up it was being run full choke. I think it was running really right or something and backfired and blew out the muffler when it did one time. A little zittts zittts from the ol reliable Harbor Freight flux core welder and it should be good to go. If the seam won't weld I'll just cut a patch and wld over the slit.

 

Supposed to have 1/4 turn slack...and you are right, probably has never been adjusted, unless it went to a dealer for a full service at some point...but the manual clutch (what you are adjusting) never wears out on those auto clutch machines...at least I've never seen or heard of one!

And you might have to bleed that air out the top...take the tap off the resivoir and carefully turn the bars so that the brake line and master cylinder are headed up hill...then gently and carefully squeeze the lever a bit...some air will probably burp out the top...keep working it until the air is gone, then bleed the rest out the bottom. Quickly wipe up any brake fluid that gets on a painted surface so that it doesn't lift the paint.