Sorry for the blurry image. iPad phone is poor. This is installed below my breaker box. Original owner put it on forty years or more for his generator I am looking at getting a big unit like the Harbor Freight 9000. Do I need to update this outlet, or just get the correct cord? The male parts of cords I see in Amazon are different (30 amp?). I know little about electric stuff. Haven’t had power outage for years, but you never know. Now is the time to buy before something happens and there is a rush on them
I have a 4 wire plug on my manual transfer switch and a 4 wire output from my genset. It provides 120/240V. My genset is rated at 6500W.
Is that the old style stove outlet? Whatever it is, it can be made to work. An electrician helped me out with making a cord. 4 prong on my generator, and I had a welder outlet in my garage. I bought the cord, and he put the ends on for me. So, I think you could find something, or have someone help you make one. I would have an electrician look at your setup, if possible. 40 years is a long time, and who knows what code was back then. If you have a transfer switch, those can go bad. If you don't have a transfer switch or a lockout in the electrical panel (my house didn't) you always need to be mindful that you're not back feeding the grid from your generator.
I think that is intended for power IN from the generator, not an outlet? If so, it is outdated and a hazard, because to use it you would need to fabricate a "suicide plug" with hot male terminals (oh boy, what did I just write?!). Could you use it? Probably, but I would fix it, especially if others might be connecting and operating the generator.
Get yourself something like this. 240v 50A twist lock gen inlet box If that outlet was for plugging a generator into “It is know as the “cheap Suicide way” If someone were to trip and pull the cord out or it comes out for whatever reason while it’s running, it’s end is live Wired Thru a transfer switch (either auto or manual) or into thru a gen inlet box wired to the main panel with an interlock is the way to go, so power can’t be backed into the main line This is my setup
Read this first https://manuals.harborfreight.com/manuals/63000-63999/63970-193175349873.pdf This generator is not made to power your house. It is made to power individual devices. From the manual: nOticE: This Generator is not intended to power sensitive electronic equipment without the addition of an appropriate line conditioner and surge protector (both not included). Sensitive electronic equipment includes, but is not limited to, audio/video equipment, some television sets, computers, and printers. Sensitive electronic equipment should be operated on approved inverter-type generators or pure sine wave generators. Spend your money on a standby generator with an automatic transfer switch wired to a subpanel powering critical circuits only.
Everything essential runs fine on my HF 6500 watt generator, except the microwave. I don't have audio equipment, and never tried the TV on it. I run everything else on it (not all at once), including the electric stove/oven, fridge, freezers, water heater, well pump, computers, phone chargers, etc. without any problem. I connect via spare breakers and an interlock kit installed in the main panel.
I do the same thing and have my generator grounded in a shed. The OP admits to being a novice with electric which is why I suggested the standby system with transfer switch. The Generac units have come down in price and have good reviews.
