I don’t replace sprockets that often. Depends on saw and sprocket type. Stihl pro saw sprocket replacement is easy and doesn’t require a rope in the plug hole.
I use an old boot lace in the plug hole being careful not to let it go into one of the ports, then typically a screwdriver and hammer to remove the clutch drum, or the scrench. The straight screwdriver goes in one of these two cut outs to the left of “off”, then rap on it a couple times. Here’s another style that takes a scrench.
Joe, I'm pretty sure your Rancher doesn't have an easy replaceable sprocket, it's a similar setup as my Husky 350. They have the drum and sprocket as one piece, so you'd have to replace the whole thing. Your new one will have a separate replaceable sprocket though. I have a couple tools which you place into the spark plug hole to stop the piston. I then have a clutch removing tool as well. As far as replacing them that often....no way! Replace when they wear out. Only time I have swapped sprockets is when I was playing with larger ones for more chain speed. I do run a larger one on my 346XP.
The shoelace or recoil rope is a good idea. Shine a flashlight in the plug hole and make sure the exhaust port isn’t open. Shove 6” of rope in and go about removing the clutch
The Oregon rim sprockets have wear indicators. So, got a new B&C combo Read it from the start. It's short.
Does no good when the OP's saw doesn't have a replaceable rim sprocket though. I'm pretty sure the Rancher's all have an all-in-one clutch drum/sprocket. Like this: Not this:
I'm guessing you can, at least on some saws. I'm pretty sure the clutch drum on my 346XP would fit on my Husky 350. You just gave me an idea! I can pick up a clutch drum for a 346XP, as I have the stock sprocket from that saw I can use to convert my 350 to a replaceable sprocket setup.
Watch crossing those 2. The worm drive (the plastic gear to drive the oil pump) has a different spline size/pattern. I've been back and forth with 3/8 and .325 on my Jonsered 2150 (essentially a Husky 350). Yes you can convert a spur clutch drum to a rim drive sprocket style. Just need the right parts.
I think it works just swapping the drum, but the drum teeth fit the worm a little bit loose. But I know there is a correct worm available, because I’ve also use that too. It’s not one from a 346 nor the standard one from a 350. There’s a tweener. Of course none of this has anything to do with the OP’s 4 series. Or maybe it does?
I was able to find the correct part numbers for the sprocket on my 450 and its definitely not the one with the replaceable rim sprockets. Haven't had a chance to take a look and see its condition yet. However, up above you guys were talking about swapping sprockets and oilers and such... So a little off topic... Why does my 450 leak oil all over the place when it's sitting. HOLY CRAP is that annoying to have all that oil on the inside of my carry case. I love my Husky, with that one exception.
Got a little off in case you wanted to convert to a replaceable sprocket, instead of replacing the whole clutch drum. That's not too uncommon. It's probably time for new rubber lines. The one going into the oil tank to the pump and the one from the pump to the bar plate. They aren't expensive or hard to replace.
My 346XP started leaking bar oil when sitting this past winter. In spring I bought new lines and sealed where the rubber line/case meets and also where the rubber lines meet the pump with Gasoila. Problem solved.
Are they set up the same as a 350 or 346 where they have the bar plate that pushes the oiler hose down in tight? That outer bar plate can get dented or stressed to where it no longer pushes down on the hoses to seal them. If that’s the case, probably a good idea to replace the plate also
Yesp. I've actually put a small shim under there to make sure it presses up against the plate firm. Rube Goldberg engineering.
