Storing my Log Splitter outside for the winter for the first time...Other than covering it up thoroughly....should I Extend the cylinder as if I was splitting a log and then while extended spray it with Lithium Grease or something else.....and then bring it all the way back into its housing???..Thanks guys...
No, but it is always a good idea to put some oil (not grease) on the beam then run it to spread the oil. Another thing is to put some wood boards under the tires even if on cement. Place 2 boards under each tire. Here is how we stored our splitter for years with no problem. You can see it covered with a tarp between the wood piles.
Luckily mine leaks so much hydro fluid I don’t have to worry about it much. It’s such a great water repellent the entire state is in a drought. Sorry bout that folks.
Everybody's splitter is different, my beam has no paint left on it and it will rust if left to the elements. I suppose you could use any oil, I find old drain oil to be messy and dirty. I spray mine with Fluid Film. The way hydraulic cylinders work, anything you spray on the chrome rod will just get wiped off by the seals as you retract it. The rod will be soaking in hydraulic oil all winter... nothing more you can do for it. It probably wouldn't hurt to change the engine oil before winter. That way, when you fire it up in the spring you'll be good to go.. Maybe either run it out of fuel and store the splitter with no gas in the tank or carb, or use the correct amount of something like Sta-bil and fill the tank and run it long enough to be sure treated gas is in the carb...
It may be a good idea to remove the spark plug and put a teaspoon or so of motor oil in. Slowly pull the cord a few times and then reinstall the spark plug. Good luck!
I use old motor oil on mine. I wipe down everything (except the muffler) it will get dusty but its 10 years old and looks like it just left the showroom. Tarp cover with a tennis ball on the handle so the tarp doesn’t rip. Tennis ball is comfy on the hand too
It can help but I don't; I use clean oil. Why does it help? Just keep one thing in mind when it comes to metal; oil is cheaper than metal. Also by using clean oil rather than used or rather than grease is that it does not seem to draw dust and dirt. Put grease on and the dirt is there and the next time it is used that dirt is not welcome.
When the cylinder is retracted the rod is covered in oil...hydraulic cylinders should always be stored retracted when possible. I wouldn't hesitate to brush a little used motor oil on the beam if I were to store outside...modern gasoline engines really don't dirty their oil up much (as long as changed on schedule) compared to diesels and gas engines of the past...
I am a proponent of inside storage for all small gas equipment. All my generators, log splitter, small outboard, gas compressor and such are stored indoors just like my chainsaws. I use non-ethanol gas in all and start and run each of them (also the big outboard on the boat) briefly every few weeks during the lay by season for each. This keeps gas from stagnating and also nourishes all the seals. I know some have the habit of storing the splitter outside under a tarp and it works for them. I just go by the rule that, if it cost a big chunk of change, it ought to be protected from the elements. A good dry film, non-dust attracting lube or protectant like Boe-shield or a similar product would work well on the slide. For that matter, melted paraffin painted on would work great for both lube and preservative qualities. I may start doing that on mine! I wish you the best of success whichever way you jump.
I store inside, but due to condensation, I have started to spray down surfaces, including aluminum engine cases, with fluid film. And I always turn off the gas and run the carbs dry, after every use. I started doing that when I had one get a stuck float and fill my crank case with gas, one day after an oil change. If I am shutting down for more then a re-fuel, gas gets shut off.
