3000 sq ft is an exaggeration by the manufacturer in my opinion...a very well insulated/air sealed 3000 sq ft, maybe. This is only a 3.5 CF firebox, right? Drolet makes one the same size, but with a superior HX, and only rates it at 1000 to 2500 sq ft, that's more realistic IMO. So you have 1100 square ft of poorly insulated basement, and another 1100 sq ft of main level with what level of insulation?
I wouldn't jump without giving some consideration to what the guys on here are telling you; they do have your interest at heart. Remember that all wood stoves heat the rest of the house by moving warm and cold air around; radiant infra-red heat is only when standing in front of the stove. I had a friend; he is gone from this world now, that put a stove in his basement and was going to use open floor registers to allow the warm air in the basement to rise up from the holes in the floor to heat the house. He told me that he went through a lot of wood and lived in a cold house. It just didn't work. I am not making that story up. I told my friend the same, that he needed forced air system to move the warm air out of the basement to the rest of the house.
The key to heating from the basement is to run the stove 24/7. After about 2-3 days the foundation has heated up and it's easier maintain the temp up stairs. My stove is in the basement and heats 2200 sf up and 1400 sf down. Basement is unfinished, but I hung the roll insulation on the walls that covers the upper part of the foundation wall. We have done a lot of sealing work around the joists. With the three year plan I went from 7 cords a year to three. Above 20 degrees and everything is toasty. Below 20 degrees needs a little help from the oil boiler. We continue to upgrade our windows, doors, insulating blinds, etc.
I’m curious what stove/ firebox size you are heating with? I sorta imagined the foundation would eventually warm up with 24/7 burning. Thank you for confirming that.
Basement stove here as well. The earth acts as an insulator. Maybe not a terribly good one, but one. What's the max freeze/frost line in the ground in your area ? The drier the earth is the better, so drain roof water as far away as possible. What really sucks with concrete walls in the winter is the % of wall exposed to the cold above ground. Rim joists can be a terrible source of cold air infiltration and it can be worth every minute spent air sealing them as long as they are air sealed well. I think the worst air infiltrator type is the open manufactured joist which can turn a whole floor ice cold above a finished basement , especially with a foundation overhang where so many of these joist types are used in far too common raised ranches. With no rim joist and sloppy cuts on the ply or particle rim board there can be gaps the size of your fingers letting air go right thru any fiberglass insulation they may or may not have stuffed in the cavity. Like this: