9 years plus at a bike shop (thin aluminum engine castings) dealing with "I broke this off, can you get it out?" (and only charge me $5 was usually the next thing they said ) has me very much in agreement...unless OP has no welder, and no access to one...at that point you need to move on to plan B...welding a nut on was/is always plan A...
That was part of the reason for leaving the dealership. The company that I worked for refused to pay more time for broken fasteners. The manufacturer is using smaller and lighter bolts with locktite that would break bolts in a blink. If flat rate included time to heat all fasteners before attempting to remove them it would be no prob but it didn’t.
Why I guess I did didn't I. I have a real dislike for them. I remove about 6 broken easy outs for customers a year. Plenty of better options available.
Any standard twist drill can be hand ground to cut in reverse, granted it'll be a little negative sorta like a brass/scraper drill. But it will actually transmit a fair amount of torque to the fastener.
No clue. Around here they seem to be avoided like the plague. I typically remove over a hundred broken fasteners a year by more reliable means.
If it didn’t bottom out before it broke there is no pressure on it and it should just turn out. Use a sharp punch and tap on it counter clockwise till it spins out. This is the smartest guy I know. Not really. But you can learn a lot. Just don’t watch if you have sensitive ears.
If you aren’t real warm and fuzzy about drilling and extracting that , drop by a machine shop ,and see what they can do for you .
All great supportive ideas! Thank you! And I may end up going through all of them before I go cigarsmokingzombie technique and wrap the thing a hundred yards away. This saw is haunted. I’ve been working on it off and on since the spring. I took my $30 Christmas gift card up to TS, not enough for mig welder, and bought 5 bux in glue. I over torqued it on rebuild, so it not seized on rust. I’ll wait the 24 hours, go down to the bench and snap it off with a T27 and go to step 2. With the tools I have, I think billb3 will be the next option on my bench. At 4mm OD on the threads, there’s not a lot of meat there.
If that bolt was just over torqued and snapped off, then unless the threads started to strip/jam too, it will likely back out pretty easy...maybe with that "glue" (that's a big maybe) or chances are better that it can be "pecked out" with a sharp center punch and a small hammer to encourage movement...just centerpunch a spot close to one edge...then peck at that spot to try and get to turn CC. An automatic centerpunch works really well for this too...as long as the bolt doesn't turn too hard.
This saw is a short lived unicorn MS280. I got it in a pile of saws and appeared to be straight gassed. Solenoid was bad. On rebuild I fworded the air dams. I was going back with new seals when this happened. Thanks! I’ve put more effort into this one than most and I appreciate the help! I’ll report back on the glue Hail Mary
