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Underground insulated pipe

Discussion in 'OWB's and Gasification Boilers' started by LongPondPaperBoy, Jul 20, 2016.

  1. LongPondPaperBoy

    LongPondPaperBoy

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    Looking for. 80 ft of 1 1/4 dual pex insulated pipe.

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  2. Wise8706

    Wise8706

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    What's ur budget? I would look Into the thermopex. There's multiple different manufacturers, the more money you pay for your pipe will save you money in the long run on wood consumption.


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  3. LongPondPaperBoy

    LongPondPaperBoy

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    Would like to spend under 10.00 a foot

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  4. Wise8706

    Wise8706

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    10$/ft will get u above average pipe


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  5. LongPondPaperBoy

    LongPondPaperBoy

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    [​IMG]

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  6. LongPondPaperBoy

    LongPondPaperBoy

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    Just ordered this stuff for the house heat exchanger

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  7. Eric VW

    Eric VW Moderator

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  8. LongPondPaperBoy

    LongPondPaperBoy

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    Is anyone using a variable speed circulator pump that is measuring the delta temp across the supply and return of there wood boiler? Taco makes a pump that does this. That way you get the most out of your heat exchanger.

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  9. LongPondPaperBoy

    LongPondPaperBoy

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    Where is the best location for Cir. PUMP I can put it at boiler or in basement 60ft away. The elevation is flat. Also are people using the thermomatic valve?

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  10. yooperdave

    yooperdave

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    I placed my circ pump in the basement where it would be easy to change if needed. It will only fail during a storm at night, you know....Murphy has his own ways!

    The elevation is also flat and the distance is slightly farther. I installed it using two isolation valves/flanges so I can just shut the valves off and loosen the flange nuts to remove the pump. I have a few spare circ pumps ready to go (with a cord end on them for the electric). I can always rebuild the failed pump (typically a replacement cartridge) after the replacement is installed and on line.
     
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  11. LongPondPaperBoy

    LongPondPaperBoy

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    Great info. Did you put a iso valves right at the boiler also? At my boiler I am running 2 sets of lines. 1 1/4 for the house and 3/4 for a future pool or hot tube. Any pictures

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  12. LongPondPaperBoy

    LongPondPaperBoy

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    Have you ever heard of anyone using a variable speed circulator pump to get the most out of the exchanger

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  13. coal reaper

    coal reaper

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    yeah, i have an HEC-2. i use it to get the most out of my storage tanks. i dont think it would help much in your situation. for one, its expensive. you can run a 007 for a long time before you pay off a variable speed circ. secondly, i think you want to keep the storage temps on the high side when running your OWB. lastly, its a PITA to program. i like it becasue it may be hours between calls for heat from my house. the water in my underground lines has lost most of its heat. when there is a call, the HEC-2 runs full out for a couple minutes. this clears the lines of the not-so-hot water. it then throttles back to my set temp. i have it returning 130*F back to storage. it often runs at its lowest setting (9W) and still maintains higher than set point. this low flow keeps nice stratification in my tanks. you might be better off with a 3-speed and playing around it until you see what she likes. hope that helps you out a little bit.
     
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  14. LodgedTree

    LodgedTree

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    Yes I do. It is very hard to find techs that know how to deal with this type of variable injection pump but the amount of fuel it saves is amazing, not to mention the accuracy of the indoor temp. I set mine at 70 degrees. It does not matter if it is -20 outside or 40 degrees, its set at 70 degrees so it is 70 degrees inside.

    I will say however that I live in a ranch house with radiant heat inside a concrete slab. Temperature sensor are outside, in the slab, on return water from my floor, and on the main boiler loop.

    I won't say I disagree with Coal Reaper on the programming; I just would not call it difficult. You just sort of have to toy with it, BUT radiant heat is difficult to set because it lags behind by 12 hours or so before you feel a notable change. Its what makes it efficient. So you change one of four computer settings on the PLC and see how it does. The whole concept is different then most heating systems because ideally set, you don't want that circulator to ever shut off. The thermostats and zone valves are the dumb parts of the system, if the PLC is programmed right, that should control the temp in the house by controlling the temp running through your floors; the zone valves should not.

    One thing I should mention, my circulators are 3 speed control for added flexibility, and I do a lot of fining tuning with my Delta T temps via ever loop in my radiant system having flow controls with gauges on them. It makes a huge difference so I can balance out each different length loop to get the ideal Delta T drop in my concrete floor.
     
    Last edited: Sep 23, 2016
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