Somewhere on that bottle it will tell you the result of adding it to a gallon of fuel. The Husky and Stihl oil bottles are the same way. They come pre-packaged for either a 40:1 or a 50:1 mix and both ratios are often located on the same shelf.
I've ran numerous oils over the years from oem to the bike oils. My favorites so far. Honda HP2, Maxima K2 and Super M, Klotz R50. Thought about running Klotz original, but it's not the best storage lube and most of my saws spend time sitting. Like Mike said if you're milling some oils will get hot enough to burn off. Bean oils are not the best idea, except in maybe the most extreme conditions.
I usually avoid these oil discussions like the plague, but I will chime in here. Keeping a saw TUNED correctly is the most important aspect of this situation. I see far more problems from poor tuning, than from which two stroke oil is used. Suffice it to say, if you use fresh gas of an octane recommend by the manufacturer for your saw, use a good quality synthetic oil made for chainsaws, no outboard oil, and keep your saw TUNED correctly, you should have very few problems. If you do not know how to tune a saw, LEARN! if you cannot learn, or are too lazy to learn to tune a saw, sell it and go sit in the house with the women folk!!? I do not put ethanol in a saw, EVER! I am not saying the OP does not know how to tune a saw, I have not seen the saw first hand, for all I know he is right and it was the oil. I have ran the same fuel mix for over 20 years in over 35 pro saws in working conditions. I have had ONE scored cylinder from an air leak. I have had ONE saw need the fuel lines replaced, after many years of hard use.
Nope. Plenty of people run it. I do. And with the right oil and tune a saw should never look like that!
Disclaimer #1 I am not a saw manufacturer, the following is NOT a recommendation, it is just what I do. Disclaimer #2 I don't believe the oil I use is a magic bullet, it is PART of a regimen. Read the whole mix. First I start with a CLEAN can, many don't. To this I add 2 gallons of 90 or 91 octane ethanol FREE gasoline. I check it myself the first few times from a station and then sporadically after that. Next I add 6.4oz of Amsoil Saber Professional, this is 40:1. I don't believe stock saws need 40:1 but most of my saws are not stock. To this I add 2 oz of Seafoam and .75 oz of Amsoil fuel stabilizer. Shake can and go. KEEP SAW TUNED properly! I tune in the wood and double check with tach from time to time. Been doing it this way since the early to mid 90's I'd say.
Relative statement. 6 pack of 2.5gal bottles on ebay for $19.50 or $1.29/gallon of mixed fuel 15 gallons total. 15 gallons of two cycle would last me about 3 years, so $6.50 per year. Bar oil is what seems expensive to me. Sounds like you have your formula down to a science!
Expensive compared to other stuff. Not talking bargon box Dino oil either. Not expensive that I can't afford
Says right on the can, for use in gas , diesel, 2 and 4 stroke. And use in engine oil. It's petroleum based...mostly naptha.
I think he's talking canned fuel? But you can also use the 50:1 bottles and add .8 gallons of gas to it to make it 40:1 etc. Some of those generics say good for all ratios and is really just 50:1 normally and it doesn't say but you add it to a gallon of fuel but doesn't really specify ratio.
I generally use the 1 gallon bottles and stop the pump at .9/gal. Seems like some of the oil stays in the bottle, so I feel better being slightly rich. I wonder if the residual oil in the mix bottle is counted towards the ratio? Asinine I know, but I'm a details kinda fellow.
