Yea I knew the lc9s was the new one. I was thinking there was another difference. I don't remember now what the difference was but maybe it was trigger?
I believe the lc9 was a double action only hammer fired gun. The lc9s is a single action striker gun, hence the s.
I hate the trigger on my Taurus PT709. It is a double action trigger. The first time I shot it I pulled on the trigger and nothing happened, then I tried again nothing, then I pulled on it really hard and it fired. I was only pulling the trigger to the first stage. After that I was fine with shooting it but the trigger is horrible on it. I have read of others having the same problem with this gun. I can get a stainless striker guide that replaces the factory plastic one. I'm going to take the gun apart and look at it and see what can be done.
Wish I could give you a good range report on the new springs, but I can't. They make the gun very unreliable and dangerous. you never know when it's going to go off. In one mag it would not fire four times at all. I pulled the trigger hard against the guard and it would not go off except once when I pulled really hard on it after it was against it. then sometimes it would go off on a shorter stroke. I'm going to do some checking into this and probably going to put the old springs back in. this is unacceptable. it makes the gun into an unreliable one I shot it at only ten yards and was using a rest. the flyers is when it would go off unexpectantly. I may get rid of this thing after I put old springs back in and make sure it works. I wouldn't sell it now cause it's a piece of junk right now. What's weird is dry firing it feels fine. save your money.
I did take this gun apart and see what the problem was, The plunger spring they supply is too light to push the trigger bar down. I had to do some work on the trigger bar and sear and had to put the stronger spring back in. It is working now. but I retract my statement that it was well worth the money. It may work on some guns bit it didn't on mine.
I saw the sv9 and sv40 going for $279 new a little while ago. A little more for the trigger might be worth it. Most guys are totally happy with just the spring kit, from what I hear. I'm glad to hear that the spring kit went in easy. Try it out and report back.
Wow. You're the first person to have said this about the new spring kit. I'd contact the spring kit manufacturer.
I haven't shot it since I polished the sear and trigger bar and put one old spring back in. It does dry fire but still has a long pull. it feels lighter but can't really tell until I shoot it. The not working at all was what I didn't like. I was planning on making this a truck gun, but I doubt it now.
Let me know if you work on that trigger, I'm not a fan either. It's not proven itself to be a 100% reliable handgun so it's on "the back shelf" until I have time to work it.
Yes, the "S" is striker fired. If the LC9 was anything like the LCP, the "S" is a definite improvement in trigger feel. I was not a fan of the LC9s, as far as ergonomics went. Then I added Talon grip wraps to it. They made all the difference, it was a dramatic upgrade believe it or not. It's also been 100% reliable, even after 500 rnds between cleanings with a mix of bullet weights- 115, 124, 147. That one I trust.
I'll let you know how it works out. I've heard the best thing for them is too shoot them. I guess since it was so cheap, the machining is not that good. Mine is rusting pretty good to. I need to get a pic of that.
I did a rough calc., have a little over 800 rnds. through it. It'll be a winter project. Rusting? Need a pic. of that, that doesn't sound good.
Beetle-Kill Here is the rust on my Taurus. It is carried in a kydex IWB holster. I bought this gun to carry while I was working to keep a good gun from getting messed up. I don't think it should be rusting. Any thoughts?
Did you notice the retention screw on the holster is rusting also? That's what happens when you sweat and the steel parts are dry. Nothing to be too concerned about , if looks aren't all that important. No, the slide shouldn't show signs of rust, but I don't know the hell that pistol has been through, or what it's seen. If you want to clean it up, some oil and 4X steel wool, work it slowly and most will be gone. Now, so will some of the blueing. A light coat of -flat black , auto wheel spray paint- it'll look like new, and be protected. These things are steel and plastic, what works on normal steel works equally well on gun steel. Cerakote is an option, but expensive. I have a couple of hunting rifles I put together years ago. I sprayed them with Hammerite. No rust after a decade +.
Yes I noticed the screw on the holster is rusting. The mag release has some rust also. I thought I had been oiling it too much. I work in a garage with no a/c 90*+ weather, then I carry it when I mow, cut wood (I've had wood chips in the holster), or anytime I am working. I drink a lot of water and sweet a lot. The odd thing about the rust is, it is on the left side that I would think is protected by the holster. Good idea on the 4X steel wool. I'll just clean it up for now. When it gets to looking bad I may look into refinishing the slide. I really like hammer finish paint. It is very durable.
You're a right hand draw, correct? That thing is tucked in between you and whatever you're wearing at the time. Body heat/ humidity is on the left side. It's trapped. Clean it up and try some -auto wheel paint- on the slide and exposed metal. I only suggest this because it's normally formulated to withstand the environment a wheel has to endure. And flat black is flat black.
Has anyone sent a P320 in for the voluntary recall? Do you know what this "mechanical disconnector" is that they add?