So, last fall my transmission grenaded in my 97 Suzuki TL 1000S after 42k. It was a known issue on early build TLS's, a weak spot was the output shaft bearing. Mine is a very early build first year 97 . It was addressed on 98+ models. Well, mine went, and cracked the engine case. The 97 TLS, as wheelie prone and hooligan like as it was, was named International Motorcycle of the Year in 97. A big deal really. It's a fun bike, with a cult following. I love the bike. I've owned it since 2001. I had to fix the bike and get it running again. So after a while of trying to find a replacement motor, I found a 98 TL1000R motor that wasn't stupidly expensive. Here's my TLS Here's a TLR They are both 996cc DOHC 90° efi v twins. The differences are many, but the engine architecture is the same. R has forged pistons, higher compression, 6 spring hydraulically actuated clutch, more can lift, slightly higher redline, better oiling for the crank, beefier transmission output bearings, 2 injectors per cylinder, water cooled oil exchanger/ cooler. S motor has cast pistons, 1 injector per cylinder, 5 spring cable operated clutch, and a small oil cooler down low. Later model S motors had 6 spring clutches, and the better output bearings. However, in an attempt to tone the hooliganism down, they tamed the ECU, cams etc on the S model. The R model was made for Superbike racing. It had no concessions as far as power. The R engine bolts right into the S frame, even though the R and S share almost no chassis or body parts. To put the R motor in the S, you have to use the efi and throttle bodies of the S. Also there's an extra wire to run for the GPS gear position sensor, and the oil cooler difference. That oil cooling system needs a tee put in the radiator hose, and adding a nipple to the S water pump. The TLS/R swaps been done a good many times, but not greatly documented as far as the exact parts/ sizes to use. Here are some pictures of the TLS/R swap as far as the oil cooler This one shows a few ways it's been done. All but the lower right are correct. That one is no bueno. It does show the oil cooler in between the cases and the oil filter though. The 2 on the left are the the S water pump. The R pump is on the right. To use the S pump, an outlet needs to be added, the smaller nipple on the lower right of the upper left corner. Drill, tap, then JB weld the fitting in, and paint it. The radiator hose is apparently 3/4" id. The tee in the blue hosed option is a 3/4" copper fitting. It needs a smaller outlet to connect to the oil cooler hose. There's this jankety ones with galvanized pipe tees and reducers. But that works. But it works. And another, with TLR water pump used. Here's the stock TLS oil cooler and water pump. I'll have the TLS and tlr water pumps to use, so I'm uncertain of what direction I'll go. I figure I'll get the R motor in and TB's hooked up, then swap the clutch to my cable clutch, and then work out the oil cooler details.
Me too. There's always unknowns. I looked at the used TLR motor pics as best as I could to make sure there were no stripped threads or broken bolts. It looked clean. Since it's coming to work today, if there are any issues like that, I can solve them quickly before it gets too my house.
Ok the motor was delivered at work today. In the Audi. I guess I got 2 more tie downs in the deal. That's a hefty 2x4 pallet. The only surprise so far is the broken header bolt, but there's about 5/8" sticking out, so it should come out pretty easy. I'll hit it with some penetrating oil. I'll need to take the PAIR valve tubes off, and make block off plates. PAIR is an air induction system that guys take off. My 97 didn't have PAIR valves. 98+ did. I'm kinda surprised the TLR motor I got didn't have the PAIR valves blocked off already. They rob HP, and make airbox install a pita. Maybe the fact that the of cake were on this bike until it was parted out is a sign this motor wasn't abused? There's a little rash on both clutch and stator covers, but mine on my TLS are perfect, so no biggie. I'll swap those after I get the motor into the frame. I've decided to use the R water pump cover. Less screwing around with house ends and Barb's, but I'll have to find out but a hose to make that work. I'd rather cut hose than drill and tap a pump housing.
That's a 530 stock one though. I've been running a 520 setup. I put a new set of front and rear sprockets with a gold RK x ring chain on my bike last year.
Lol I'm shooting for the swap to get done, or at least the bulk of it installed by memorial day weekend. This weekend is getting my tractor from up North.
Ok, I have officially started on this project. I've got the TLR water pump cover off cleaned, degreased, and ready for some gloss black Dupont Imron paint tomorrow. We have a project at work that is getting painted, and there will be overspray from what I hear... All of our hydraulic technicians are gear heads and don't mind helping out.
Yes, I'm using the R motor water pump cover. I'll then need to run a tee to the clutch side rad hose, and then run some other hoses from the liquid cooled oil cooler. I'm not 100% certain exactly how, but I know those with much less mechanical ability have performed this swap over the years... It'll make sense and begins clear once I get the Motor in.
The R motor's water pump cover is nice and shiny black. It's hanging from the paint booth drying tonight. I measured the outlets. 1/2" for the smaller oil cooler hose barb's, 1" for the main rad hose. So I'll need a 1" tee with a 1/2" side entry. Copper fitting should work. It just can't have any solder joints.
Ok, finally getting really moving on this. My mega bruise on my thigh/ hip/butt from falling on the driveway the other day really prevented me from working on the bike anyway. The bike's in the garage where my Audi typically parks. I've already got the front fairings off, tank ready to take off. Then radiator, and exhaust. The broken exhaust bolt is going to need heat persuasion. It's an m8, so pretty small, but the head busted off when the cycle salvage place took the motor out. So it's really a stud now. I hear that they like heat cycles from getting a nut welded to them. . They supposedly come free after getting heated and cooled from welding. I'll do that Wednesday night at my buddy's place, with my mig welder. The motor's light enough for me to pick up and put in the trunk of my car without to much effort.
Bingo.. found it. It's in stock and inexpensive too. One piece of the puzzle solved. I'll be working more on it tonight. Tomorrow night I'll take the TLR motor to my buddy's and get the welder to help remove that broken bolt.
Well, we found the 1% The nut welded to the broken stud broke it off twice but the remainder is still stuck. Unfortunately the second exhaust stud in the same front cylinder was broken off and attempted to drilled out as well. So now I gotta find a machine shop to tackle this. The good news is that these appear to be the only issues that I wasn't aware of, or can't easily fix. The rear cylinder exhaust threads are in great shape. Hopefully that is the end of the surprises. There is enough for me to do to get the old motor out first, so there shouldn't be much of a time delay with this news.
Awww...that sucks! Find a shop that works on a lot of heads, they see this a lot and will have the tools and expertise to do a real nice repair for you
