Thanks guys! Here's what I'm working with: Ss liner to be Tuesday and Mason will be over the next rainy day to finish the brick to fill in the fireplace and the wall behind the burner. I will then lay a subfloor on top of the wood and set tile for woodburner to sit on.
Original Brunco insert that came with the house in that same location. I had originally had high hopes of using this old smoker but after realizing that even though I live only a few miles from the manufacturer and necessary parts are no longer available, I opted for a new efficient model.
I didn't mention that I am placing 1/2" cement board below the tile. According to my chimney sweep, the burner dealer, and my insurance company- that is sufficient. As far as actual numbers go, I am not sure.
Might be fine that way...hafta look up the requirements on the that model...they are all different. And as far as the chimney sweep, dealer, and ins. co. actually knowing what the exact R value requirement is...I'd say the dealer might...the other two probably not. But some dealers are real bone heads too...waaay too many in fact. IMO there are more wood stove experts on a couple of these wood burner sites than in most dealers stores all combined. You do run across a person now again in dealer stores that cares and really knows their stuff...not just a "numbers" salesperson
Hey Born2Burn, here's a review from here at FHC ★★★★☆ - Buck Model 74 Don't know if you've seen it yet....
I looked up the manual for a Buck 74 to look up required R value. Here is a snip of the relevant info...it appears that your 1/2" cement board should be fine...they don't seem to give you a required R value outright...must be a non issue with this model!
This would place this stove in similarity to mine as they both seem to require just ember protection not a thick hearth. hffHowever I plan on trying to raise mine a little bit so I gain a better perspective of the stove. Plus i have brick all over for this project.
I wish I had the room to do a free standing stove instead of stove in the fireplace. I'd have that puppy about 16" up off the floor in a heartbeat if I could...loading while sitting at a normal height is much better than sitting on the floor Indian style, plus better view as you said!
Walla! Progress yesterday. Liner installed and burner delivered. I have a truck and could have picked it up myself, but for a few extra bucks it appeared magically in my living room as I was at work. I did consider raising it because I know that's the cats meow. Cannot go that route though due to the lack of floor support. 10" single floor joists aren't going to cut it in my opinion, unless I wanted to add columns in the basement. First impression of the burner is that it is extremely well built, but seems smaller in physical size that I expected. I think it is partially die to the fact that the room is quite large and in perspective, the burner appears small. Mason might be here at the end if the week to lay the brick.
I knew installation would require the 2 90's from the conception of this project, but I hope it drafts well and doesn't create problems.... Oh well, it's going in and I'll report back later in the burning season with my results.
I was fortunate to not have any 90s in mine. Its a zero clearance insert with a 26 ft stack. It drafts very well and I have only had 1 incident where my wife smoked the room up because the chimney was cold and it didnt have a good draft. However after about 45 seconds and closing the air control slightly, it corrected itself and all was well, except foe the smoke in the house. I have also utilized the outside air kit, but i can not really tell a differnce in effeciency or burn times. Are you planning on hooking up the OAK?
Yeah, and having the first 90 immediately on top of the stove could be an issue too...generally 18-24" straight up is what is called for before any elbow. If your chimney has strong draft it should be fine though...I hope
I have not considered an OAK. In fact, I've never even heard of one until a few weeks ago when I joined up here on firewood hoarders. I haven't done quite enough research to fully understand if I would want or need one, and I also don't know what installation would involve. I will look into it though. I agree. It could certainly be an issue but it was setup by a highly experienced chimney sweep that the dealer, an unrelated general contractor, and a friend highly recommended I use for installation of the liners and burner. I have to think that if wasn't going to work or if it was a big no no, he wouldn't have set it up the way he did. That being said, next time I'll try for straight up and out! Today we are finishing the tile and setting the burner later in the week. Although I will have to wait months to get a fire going and really try the buck out, it is great incentive to be out there bucking and splitting!!!! Thinking I'll need 4 cords to run the course of the winter. That is a complete guess though....
Born2Burn The OAK as it has been explained here is just going to draw air outside if your stove doesn't draft well alone. I've read a few pro's and con's involving them but they seem to be sometimes stove specific. I often seem to think that the OAK is used when the house is pretty "tight". Not sure I'll go with this myself as some drafty options to equalize the heat around the house may be best kept as left alone. I only have 736 square feet with a garage that gets that to about 1000 and I can open a door rather than a window to just vacate the air rather than open everything wide. Those conversations about having a fire going hot, 80 - 90 degrees in the house while its 15 outside are enlightening but I may not need to that often so Im gonna wait. Read up here on the options, I don't remember seeing an OAK thread so do a search. Good luck!
