It seems a little high, I'll need to look at what we charge for an install like his tomorrow and will reply as late as the evening unfortunately......
Well Seasoned I would love to get a call, I would just have to have someone help me with that as I am deaf so we can leave that option open. I will PM you later tonight. That is quite a good diagram of pictures I need. I think the only part I would be curious about is what does the installation look like between the roof and the ceiling of your house? What do the brackets or framing look like as they hold the pipe? Looks like this more feasible than I thought. Thank you very much!
Don't worry about the when, waiting for another opinion is likely to be worth it. If you install these yourself, I'd be indebted to you for your advice.
Your welcome - we can set something up. There is an adapter from the black dbl wall stove pipe (dbl wall code for a mobile home in your area? ) to meet the class A pipe within this space. A ceiling box, whether round or square cleans up the look of the connection, all while giving you the clearance to combustibles using angle brackets to attach everything to the square support that needs to be build around your trusses or rafters.
Its midnight here on the east coast, 6 am comes early, so I'll be nodding off. Pm me with any particular questions, we can exchange #s and get started. Ask your stove shop/ installers of they are csia certified.
One thing is I doubt this was new, I don't know when the furnace was uninstalled but what I can see is the remnants of the hearth that used to be here previously and honestly I wish that was still here. One thing is the bones of this looks ok but I can't be sure. What I was told though is to just take the chimney down a bit at a time. Take the top part, dismantle, cover roof and then work on the lower area as time allows. I think I should try to get rid of the chimney as the stove takes up about the same space.
Right but there is information that I am leaving out above this quote as I cropped it because it also includes personal info, that's all.
I think the thing I am over thinking is that my daughter is like how I was, is a bit of a run first, learn later. The good thing is she does know what is hot and I intend to push that lesson onto her as its just an element of burn. This phase she's in right now is called "push anyone's buttons" so the game is set, I'm prepping mine and see which one of us gets it first.
A little offtopic but could you explain what fasteners are used on the bottom of the roof flashing and what was used for sealant? It looks like silicone seal. Whatever it is, does the seal last for the life of the roof or does it have to be checked and replaced now and then? And if so, how often? Finally, will regular roofing cement work? Not questioning your install, just curious as to what works best regarding roof penetrations. Any info. appreciated. Brian
Ss safety gate could help the little one This would be a must for me if the stove was in the living space. On a side note a child getting burned is one I've the main reasons I haven't abandoned the dragon in the basement. Many folks have grown up around stoves with out issues but it would always be in the back of my mind. I would feel terrible if something happend because of my negligence. One time when we were young my sister was pizzed at me so she put my plastic toy truck on top of the hot stove! One more concern. I don't remember how they got the melted plastic off but it made a mess.
After pulling up the roofing nails from above the penetration to slide the flashing under the shingles we use a very durable and long lasting clear silicone under the flashing, screwed down with neoprene EPDM bonded sealing washers and sealed with more silicone. The stuff is durable, but like anything, could fail in the right circumstances eventually, but likely not for a long time.
The hearth work. This is how it sits right now. What is left to do is a section that comes out about 26 inches in the middle and its likely to change in width a bit at the beginning and the builder can get to work soon enough.
I forgot to double check on my post but the front of this is supposed to go wide and taper slightly. Mainly to just stay with floor clearances. Tile and grout work to come today likely or fairly soon. Soon as I finish the carpet and brick layout. It is wide to accomodate wood(small stack) ash bucket, tools on one side and then wet clothes, coats and boots on the other. Rack work (spoiler alert) will likely happen after all components are in my project list. Cold weather jobs yeah!
I put the stove cut out there and it looks a little off. I am hoping I bought myself some breathing room with the wider hearth but also because the joists look "0ff" as well. Mainly the centerpoint is not center from the ground but either way I kept the clearances in mind and this will be a focus point.
