How does this effect a Harman Invincible RS insert?

Hello
See pics below.
It is a Harman Invincible RS insert pellet stove. Stove has been cleaned but still has a lazy flame and soots up within 10-15 mins!
Everything works fine in test mode but in stove temp mode the new combustion blower runs too slow and the new distribution blower does not turn on with a new black ESP and new control panel and wire harness, :-(
House AC outlet wiring checks out good and reads approx 121.0 Volts AC

Pic 1 - Not the OEM plug on the end of the pellet insert AC cord
Pic 2 - The correct AC wiring diagram.

 

black wire should be on gold screw, white wire on silver screw, polarity is reversed, should not effect running. when changing ESP to new version the DIP switches need reset, I do not know what to, but the settings are different.

 

But I DO know......black wire ESP? Switch 5 set on OFF, red wire ESP, switch 5 set ON. Note that all new boards come with switch 5 ON, so, if you have a old ESP, it'll be black, so OFF.

Definitely correct the plug as well. Ironpony MIGHT be right about it not mattering, but Im not so sure. Who knows what goes on in the circuitry of the CB? I dont. Snowy probably does. I do know that we check polarity at every install, and reversed polarity happens. When it does happen, we tell the homeowner to have it corrected or we cant vouch for the installation OR any warranty issues. Reversed polarity? We cant correct it....not licensed to do so here. Reversed polarity? Nothing covered under warranty either.

Fairly sure you know this, Don, but the side heat exchanger tubes? They form a inverted "U", and its VERY common to have the top plugged off....this causes sooting and overall crappy performance.....need to run something up and over to the other end to ensure it isnt blocked....most are!

Now, the motors. DO NOT discount a possible bad board! We had one this week, and it was the exact same board you are using. Also, have seen an improperly pinned wiring harness from the factory as well.....need to check that (why is the #$%$# distribution blower coming on instead of the combustion blower?!). Check line voltage as well, before you do anything (tho I am guessing youve done this!)

 

probably should not assume anything, fix the plug first and then proceed. Good point LW

 

Thanks LW for all the info, I do appreciate it!
When we cleaned the stove we blasted that upper chamber like you described with an air compressor after sticking the brushes up as far as possible. I put in a new black ESP probe and set the board dp5 down. I also removed the highly resistive terminal block and put in a new wire harness with all direct wire connections. As far as the polarity reversal goes, not sure on a Harman but I know it is not good!
On a Hudson River Saranac and West Point stoves a reversal caused the convection blowers to stop working and on a Englander 25-PDVC it finally damaged the Triac for the combustion blower so much that it stopped working! These 2 problems took a minimum of 2 years to show up! The AC outlet in the home read 121.0 volts and polarity and ground checked out fine but that does not mean it is all good and no power losses. Therefore we have to bring the stove back to the shop for a known good test environment!

 

How did the stove run when it was UnStable?

 

Thanks so much for the information you guys are the best! This is a tough one, we just got it back to the shop so now I have it in a good test environment.

 

I finally fixed it. Happy Easter!
I found some hard ash blockage in the exhaust plenum in the opening from the square channel right under the room probe. See pic 1 & 2
Then I pulled the auger and cleaned it and the chute and the slide plate, all sticky with black creosote
See pic 3-5
After that the stove ran for a whole hour and quit with the six blinks! It was so bad before it would not even do that!
Still the air inlet flapper on each side was only opening a small amount. See pic 6
Was this right, I did not think so and now I know for sure - absolutely NOT!
So then as a test, I removed the air deflector on the bottom right of the fire box behind the tall baffle see pic 7, then started the exhaust blower. Then the flapper opened up all the way! Ah Ha, the top of the upside down horse shoe chamber is still blocked!!!
So I pushed up a furnace brush and blasted more with the more powerful shop DeWalt 210 PSI compressor and broke the blockage on both sides!!
Then I put the baffled back on and started the stove, for the first time in 3 weeks the flappers opened up fully! I knew then, the stove was finally all fixed.

Pic 1-2 - blockage crud and where it was.
Pic 3-5 - pimp the auger
Pic 6 - air inlet flapper on front right side
Pic 7 - remove air deflector to bypass top chambers to test stove and see if air deflectors opened up more.
Pic 8 - blasted out more crud!

 

Flapper is open fully, Harman Invincible RS Insert is Fixed!
Happy Easter!

Pic 1 - Flapper opened all the way with combustion blower on!!

Pic 2 - Stove is fixed!
Pic 3 - Fire is not Lazy!

 

You may have done this, Don, but that docking gasket is looking pretty tired.....

 

Yes it sure does. Thanks