this big ole pine has been staring me down for 2 years. It's some of what is going to be my refill for what I burn this winter. It's a 25" plus tree, so it's pretty beefy. It's hung up in a sister tree and laying at about 30 degrees. Lots of weight to this thing. So how and where do I cut it first? I just see my saws pinched in this thing forever!
Hmmmmm.... Far more experienced fellers here than me- there's only one word for this in my book- "VERY CAREFULLY!" (Yes, that's two words)
^^^^^^^^^ This. If the butt is is not loose enough to pull, 5' from the butt cut through 1/3 of the way from the top and finish from the bottom. Keep your toes out of the way when it drops, then pull it.
Agreed. Try to pull it down first with a low pull at the base. If you have a tractor sometimes a quick jerk will cause enough motion to get the crown to dislodge. If that doesn't work my next step would be to install a pull line for a come-along or fiddleblock system, then carefully make a bypass cut 90 degrees to the fall angle. Because your not cutting in the compression/tension zone you won't get pinched, then get out of the way to a safe distance and fail it with the pull system. Above all else, be very careful with this tree, it's too big to use as a learning aid and if your not confident with your abilities or gear...go see it in two more years and hopefully it will be on the ground. Take care and be safe.
Cut it loose from the roots. Do you have a saw with a big bar you can use to reach out a little and get the last bit free? Cut a wedge from the top side and then finish from the bottom a tiny bit offset to the lower end so when it falls it doesn't take your saw and bar and bury it in the ground.
No expert here, but here's my $.02, Make your top cut part way thru then insert a plastic wedge. The wedge will keep the tree from pinching on the top. Continue the downward cut. Stand back as tree will fall hard.
I'd try to pull that down with a choker chain hooked to a truck or tractor (looks to be in ground a bit). Wrap it as low as possible and pull at probably a 45 degree angle away. If not plastic wedges will be your friend. Just be carefully of not just the fall, but of the possible kick out.
I cut those like mdavlee. Wedge cut on top and then 2/3 of the way thru from the bottom.Then wrap chain around trunk 3 times. Then hook to tractor or truck and pull. The 3x wrap around will make that thing spin right out of whatever is holding it up. Pull at an angle as suggested.
This and cut a little, watch it to see the direction it wants to move, then cut a little more, repeat. If it looks like its going to kick out make sure you are on the right side. Patients is your friend
Sounds like you are doing the right thing, taking the time to figure out what to do. Pictures are hard to judge, but find the center of mass for the larger piece vs where you plan to cut is ideal. Assuming you are right (tough) if you make the cut what do you think the larger piece will do. Can it roll, or slide towards the roots, etc. if it shifts can it knock widow makers free etc. Not standing there, I would try to get a good 45 degree angle cut on the under side ( and use the good advice above). The angle will help the trunk from digging in if you're up can skid it free. Play out each cut and the possible outcomes in advance, at least that will keep you highly aware for each cut. Be safe
As a follow up, when I was 16 I hogged into a few trees that were tangled and leaned over. Young and stupid and in a rush I cut into a 6 inch maple that was loaded and when it came loose it jammed the power head into my chest and I flew back about 5 or 10 feet in the air. Aside from several bruises and severe impact to pride I was lucky enough not to get seriously hurt. I now use careful judgement when cutting leaders and hang ups, and never rush. Sorry to bore.
I pick a comfortable work height and cut off a length, watching closely how it reacts. The trees it is caught in can make the stem move sideways as you relieve weight. The stem can also go up into the air as you get further up - be ready and take your time. I do no cut off one chunk of firewood at a time because it is too many cuts in a dangerous place, but I do work my way up gradually. As others have suggested, you can use directional felling techniques to control/guide the movement (notches, hinges, etc). You can also use a chain from the stem to another tree (perpendicular from the stem), with you cutting from the other side, lower down the stem - it won't be able to come sideways after you that way. I am getting ready to do my felling for the year, and I seem to manage to hang one or two on the way. Since I am not out there every day doing this, I save some good articles and re-read them each year before I start. Here's a site I was browsing through a couple of nights ago... Chainsaw BMPs
I got bit once, too, when I was in the same age range, and was lucky to only break bones. The pros have regular safety meetings and share their near misses and discuss how to handle the situation differently next time - discussing it helps everyone keep safety one their minds when they are out working. Better to bore someone if it can save them some unnecessary excitement later on!
I'm far from a pro, but I've used the patience technique for far more than just getting widowmakers down. I will use horsepower/ torque as well, but from a distance. Bad stuff happens quickly. Patience and calculated actions will preserve your hide. If you can't get some sort of machinery in to forcibly pull it down, you have to have patience. Let mother nature help it down with a little chainsaw intervention here and there. I had a decent sized sugar maple get hung up in neighboring trees last winter. I had no way of using horsepower to pull it out. It took me and mother nature a few weeks, but calculated cuts and a lot of thought got it down safely.
I've used this type of cut many times on hung trees. When I do it though I work at a lower height than he does in the vid. If you don't feel comfortable DONT do it is my motto tho. At the end of the vid pay close attention to the slow motion of how the trunk and root ball react!
More & more i've come to depend on wedges, winches, chains & tow-straps. Anything to safely guide big sticks. A good option i've found with such trees is to winch the butt laterally once cut free of the roots. Generally much less force required than using the BFI (brute force & ignorance) approach of pulling straight back. Often, bucking pieces from the butt upwards can get gravity on your side to pull down the upper part of the stem from where it's snagged. Stay light on your feet all the while and expect the unexpected. Hard-hat area.
Keep calm! Me and da boys is coming wit da heavy stuff! I took this picture during Tanks In Town, A Celebration of Liberation, Mons, Belgium August 2010. Restored M-10 Tank Destroyer
We cut lots of trees like that and it is easy if you do it right. Realize that we are not there so can not see the total picture but you can judge where the tension is on the tree. Does it want to go one way or the other? Or perhaps it won't go left or right but simply fall straight down, which is best. Once you make a determination, it is quite simple and you don't have to do anything fancy nor do you have to pull the tree down. If you determine the tree may want to go one way, then stand on the opposite side (common sense). Start the cut on the top but also cut on the far side. You can do this from the side you are on; no need to cross over to the other side of the tree. What you will be doing is creating a weak point so that if the tree does go, it will go away from you. I cut about 1/3 on the far side and usually better than half the way through on the top. Keep a close eye on the kerf. Once you see any movement, get that saw out quickly. Now finish the cut from the underside. We like to cut these into 4' sections. 4' up usually keeps it so you don't have to hold the saw high; try to keep it below shoulder height because above that height you lose some control. Once you cut one this way you'll see how easy it is. In our woods, especially with the dead ash we many times have to cut a tree and there is no way to get it to the ground just felling it. You end up with a leaner like the one pictured. Don't panic. It is easy work. But don't take chances either. Wish we were closer Machria as I could then come over to show how it is done. Even with my half crippled body I would not hesitate to take that tree down. Nice because it is not that big of a tree. When they get over 30" then it is perhaps time to do some pulling with machinery.
Thanks for all the help guys! A few details: 1. Can't get a truck or real tractor anywhere near it, it's in the woods to thick to get to. My little Wheelhorse garden tractor can get to it, bit it will not budge that tree... 2. The base is very deep in the ground, It can't be pulled or winched in anyway without being cut first. Not with anything I have at least. 3. The top is laying pretty deep into another tree's Y, without some serious pulling power (A D10? ) I don't think that is going to be pulled out fro the top either. Have a 28" bar, can travel! Patience has been key, I've been staring at this tree since Sandy (3 years ago). I was hoping it came down or moved... but it has not budged a bit, and the tree it's laying on is doing fine, so it's not going anywhere. I'll maybe give the top cut a try, and see how she reacts, then move to the bottom. The one thing I'm afraid of is, even if I cut it 5 or 6 feet up from the base and successfully get though it, the main part will likely fall to the ground and just be at a larger angle. That would put me in the same situation with one 5' round out of it....
