Hi Folks, After 4 years of part-time burning I believe my door gasket needs to be replaced (see pic). Having never done this yet, I watched a few YouTube videos, and still have a few questions: Do I need to remove the door in order to install the new gasket, or does it make installation easier? Should I buy the new gasket from the manufacturer, or would a gasket from say, ACE hardware suffice? The manual says the gasket is 1/2" fiberglass rope. My burn season is over where I am located - will I need to light a fire to help cure the bond between rope and cement? Any other tips or tricks that you have found helped with the install? Thanks!
Much easier to lift the door off the hinges and lay flat for this. Should take just a few seconds. Not sure about which gasket, but I found with my 30NC, the stock gasket is much more dense and works better (I tried one from the hardware too). Check the hi-temp caulk tube for best install practice, but the one's I've used say to close the door for a couple hours to cure, then use. Maybe use a piece of newspaper between door gasket and stove to avoid goop on the stove, although I've never had that happen. I use a wire wheel in a drill to clean the channel after scraping, then wipe with warm water or alcohol. Good luck, and have fun
Thanks papadave. One of the YouTubers placed newspaper on the stove also, for the same reason I suspect. Good idea on the wire wheel - maybe I'll use my Dremel for that.
Dave said it all pretty much straight forward. I buy my gaskets from the dealer Best gasket cement I've used this Amazon.com: MEECO'S RED DEVIL 110 Gasket Cement and Stove Sealer: Home Improvement 77e to runny Amazon.com: Stove Gasket Cement (77E) 2.3oz BLACK: Home & Kitchen This stuff is too thick can't hardly get it out of the tube Amazon.com | Imperial KK0075-A Black Stove & Gasket Cement 80 mL (2.7 fl. oz.) Tube: Dinnerware Sets Don't forget to kneed the gasket cement tube and read instructions. I wouldn't even try to do it without taking the door off
Yep, I have a partial tube of the Meeco's in a drawer right next to me. Like HD said, knead the tube, and not for just a couple seconds. When you first try to squeeze the sealer out of the tube, do it over a piece of newspaper/paper towel as it might still be a little runny.
I'd like to add when setting the gasket into the groove, lay it in without stretching or scrunching it up. I remove the door to avoid fighting gravity. It would be a good time to check/replace the glass gasket while everything is out.
Ditto on getting the new gasket from the manufacture. Here's some gasket from the local stove shop along side the stuff Englander sells.
Trooper, you may not even have to replace that gasket but reseal it. There was a leak but perhaps just tighten the latch a little and you may get several more years out of that gasket. However, gaskets are not expensive. I've bought gasket at the local hardwares and never had a problem and I've bought from manufacturers too. They all seemed to be about the same and lasted about the same length of time.
Hello trooper I was thinking the same thing as backwoods about re-sealing the gasket that you have there instead of buying a new on. It looks in good shape form the pic, you'd have to be the judge on it though....4 years...? Hmm. Also, the other fellas suggested buying the gasket material or kit from the manufacturer; This I agree wholeheartedly with. I too purchased a over the counter gasket/sealer kit for my nc-13and found out that the manufacturer uses a "high density" gasket material whereas the gaskets you will find to buy elsewhere were no where near enough to even attempt to create a seal on the stove door! You will find that cleaning out the old material and installing the new material is much easier with the stove door removed and laying flat on a surface. In addition, after sealing and installing the new (proper) gasket onto the door, I weighed it down a bit with a nice piece of 3/4 plywood (strong) and some dumbbells to help set the gasket into the groove. Good luck-and you know we like pics!
Thanks everyone. I think I will go with the manufacturer's gasket -- in this case that is Wolf Steel. It appears to ship with a tube of Loctite Hi Temp adhesive. Do you think that will be sufficient, or should I go with the Meeco's? Here's a link to the rope and adhesive: Door Gasket for Napoleon Woodstoves.
trooper, will you indulge on your stove? Id hate to be one of the very few on this site to which have Wolf Steel/Napoleon Stoves. mine is the Timberwolf 2200, not yet installed but I figure now that you can tell me how you like your stove and what might you not like about it. Something to discuss. My thread for this is :Need some help. just check it out. Will be updating as it goes.
trooper I used a wire brush for the removal of the old silicone residue...it took a bit longer but I had time! That link does show the model number of your stove, I don't think you'll need anything else. Good luck!
Hi FatBoy85. I really like my stove, although it's the only one I have ever owned so not much to compare it to. It throws good heat, has a large viewing area for which to watch the flames (me likes me flames) and has been pretty low maintenance to this point. The cabin where it's installed is in a relatively mild climate (Northern AZ at about 6000' elevation) but we do get some cold temps and it handles those quite well. I'm still learning the finer points of burning like getting all night burns so I don't have to build a fire at 4am - but other than that I am very happy. One of the drawbacks of a milder climate is that I can't run the stove 24x7 otherwise I'll combust the interior walls Therefore I do a lot of cold starts. I read through your linked post and just wanted to warn you that my stove is an insert, not freestanding. I believe you are looking for a freestanding one, correct? Anyways my cabin is about the same size as your home and it heats it up very well - and my cabin has little to no insulation. I'm sure that if I ever decided to insulate it my stove would be more than enough. Good luck on your journey! You have found the right forum -- these folks are great, and it sounds like you've got enough wood for a few years which is key. I repeat. Dry wood is key!
Check your manual for how to adjust your door latch, ( tighter, looser) . It may or may not be necessary, when replacing a gasket, sometimes it is.
Thank you very much for doing some reading and While I have to say even though we have some slight differences, they are mild for what it is worth. I wanted to get someone who shares the brand and what their thoughts were so Im lucky to have some good testimonial here. My concerns were that I was going to not have a stove that was going to work well since this stove apparently is on "the small side" the 1.9 cubic foot firebox is what is at a disadvantage but Im actually thinking I may run mysef out of my own house! Would much rather do that with this stove than touch the dial. Yes the stove I have is freestanding, I have the legs not the pedestal and more than eager to build my fires. Soon to be installed this summer is my plan! While I doubt for 24 hour burns completely, I feel the burn times, they will be adequate for the home, providing I shut up some drafts. Its remarkable how fast these drafts move. They took the heat of my home faster than I could earn to pay for it. If that isn't enough motivation to put one in, I spent enough on heat alone to pay for this stove in 2 of the coldest months. I wonder by next year if the power company is gonna come knocking on my door asking if Im even alive. Thank you again for replying and hope you get that gasket fixed. Soon as you said Napoleon, I had to ask!
