I don't think I'd use solvents on a ceramic stove window. As HDR mentioned, try dipping a damp cloth in some ashes and rubbing the glass a little. That usually takes just about anything off the "glass". The Rutland cleaner also works on anything that's built up on my glass.
Yep, that's all I need to do. My PH stays clean about 90% of the time. Every once in a while I'll have a fire that just darkens the whole glass, I guess some bad smoldering goes on with some wet wood or something... but I just wet a paper towel and wipe it right off. Never had to "scrub" it like some mention. ?? The hardest part is getting behind the andirons, there is only about 1/4" between them and the glass which is a pita. How the heck do you get the glass out and back in???? Didn't know it comes out?
I just use a few drops of Dawn dish soap in an old Windex bottle filled about halfway with water. Spay it on, wait a few seconds and use an old microfiber cloth to wipe it off. On the tough spots, use a little elbow grease. When done, flip the cloth over and wipe off the streaks. The next time I do laundry I pitch the cloth in so I can use it the next time around. It seems to work well for me.
A damp cloth works fine most of the tine. Occasionally if the glass is very black I either use some ash as others have suggested, or I burn a really hot fire then try cleaning again.
Yes, ashes and water did not work. Steel wool didn't work. Scotch-brite pad (green) didn't work. Razor blade knife didn't work. Vinegar didn't work. For the first year or so water works great. But then this hazy build-up begins and gets worse with time. I've replaced the glass already, so this is a progressively more aggressive set of challenges on the old glass. I'm not too worried about damaging it, but if I find a fix, or an 85% fix, great. So mineral spirits doesn't work, and acid wash for dairy equipment doesn't work. But water and ashes has me wondering about lye. Hmmm.
Wow, about your only recourse at this point is to nuke it. The glass in the Ashley was slightly pitted after almost 30 years, but I was always able to get any haze off. Maybe your firewood is defective?
Carefully! The vertical metal corner pieces come off first, revealing 4 screws that hold the window frame in place. A little more to it than that, but really only a five-minute job to get in at it once you know whats going on.
well I don't know what to tell you, what to say, I have never had anything that would not come off with a wet paper towel and ashes
I've considered the defective firewood! But only wood goes in the stove (no paper/trash). She almost always is burning hot, so black deposits are never an issue. My 2-yr plan wood occasionally has an initial slight sizzle, which has me working to get to the 3-yr plan. My other plan was to do a video of progressive insults ranging from a marble to cue ball to bowling ball. Maybe if this other tack fails.
It'll get expensive, but just replace the glass when it won't come clean. Ok, that's not a real option........or is it?
A bit expensive. The clean glass is awesome, but I'd sure rather find another plan, even if it is a 4-yr plan.
Cerium Oxide...its a powder, mix a lil water in to make a paste, buff the glass with a lil bit on a small foam pad in a drill. It will actually buff off a microscopic thin layer off glass. I found out about it when I was looking for a way to get rid of a bad scuff on my wifes van windshield...than after I bought it (~$5 on fleabay) and buffed the windshield out...POW flying rock...and a slow growing crack!
Yea but it will make a mess. I have used cerium oxide in the past for polishing gemstones and for polishing glass crystals on some of my pocket watches. It is a very very fine polish.
I use the Rutland cleaner when the glass gets dirty, usually clean it before I start up from cold. The Cerium oxide works well if your glass has a permanent haze, I used an angle grinder with a buffing pad. It is a bit messy and does take a long time to polish out all of the haze but you can see the results.