Chimney and Stove selection, Englander Madison?

STOVE Chimney!
Ok guys I have tried doing some research but I am getting tired of reading through countless threads and never getting my exact answer.

Situation is dire.
Our L.P. furnace is dead
I have wanted to convert 100% wood heat with l.p. back-up well back up may have to go to the back burner! I can not afford to get a new l.p. furnace so time to get off the pot.

Layout! One story 24' by 40' house 1100sqft with 24' x 48' attached garage.(want to later covert The first 25' to living space) The chimney is a 8" clay in concert block. Their is a woodstove in the garage. Single walled less the efficient wood hungry whore. But can heat the garage and help with house heat even. There is a old inlet in the house where a wood stove used to go.
Now if I go with a stove such as the Englander madison in the house, it calls for a 6 inch chimney. Will i loose any efficiency or burn time by going 6 in from the stove for 30 inches and dump into the 8" chimney? I would still like to use the garage stove.

Option 2
Put a 6" pipe in the 8 inch chimney.
Now I doubt my garage stove would draft very well with a 6inch.

Option 3
Get a wood furnace such as the Englander 18-4000 and see if I can get the l.p. furnace to at least blow to be able to ductbinto the existing duct work. As well as still having to also add the expense of the 6" chimney insert. At this price I could get another l.p. furnace.
Please help as I would like to have this sorted and running by Oct 1st

 

You cannot run two stoves in the same flue.

Now that that's out of the way how tall is this 8" chimney? Does it draft well?

 

How tall is your chimney

 

Ha, you type faster

 

I have an 8 inch Class A chimney and it works, but I have about 5 and 1/2 ft of 6 inch stove pipe before it enters the ceiling box to the 8-inch chimney, total about 16 feet

 

I think it drafts good. it goes from the floor of the garage to about 3 ft above the roof that is roughly 20 ft. where the house pipe goes in would be about 12- 15 ft. just guessing at this time would have to measure it.

 

would it be much more for me to just put in a 6IN stand alone? This place used to use both stoves on that one chimney???? hmm

 

Maybe you could put a liner in the chimney for your stove in the house.
After that is set up you could run you a new class A chimney for the garage later

 

By Standalone I assume you mean put in a new class A chimney through the roof.
That will require roof flashing, cut a hole in the roof, a ceiling box, get up in the attic and frame in for the ceiling box, cut a hole in the ceiling, Class A chimney pipe from ceiling box out the roof, single or double wall stove pipe from stove to ceiling box

 

yep that is what I meant. Would this be all I need through the roof? other then the pipe
DuraVent DuraPlus Chimney Kit, Through-Roof, 6-In.: Model# 6DP-KBSC | True Value

 

That will do it, just add class A chimney pipe, from ceiling box out the roof and inside stove pipe stove to the ceiling box

 

I'm not sure that's the proper ceiling box for a flat ceiling though.
It would work though

 

Modern stoves generally don't work well on larger chimneys, they don't waste enough heat to the chimney to make it work properly. Especially a masonry one...just not enough to keep it warm. 6" insulated pipe and a minimum of 15' total height is highly preferred.
Putting up a new class A chimney straight up through the roof is the best way if you can pull it off. FYI, if you have Menards around they have the best prices on class A that I have seen in many years. I have used the Supervent (Selkirk) brand that they sell on two different chimneys now...works great. The last one I put up was about $600 all in for a 15' straight up chimney. It was on sale plus they had 11% off on top of the sale.

 

^^^^^
What they said. I used Selkirk from Menard's as well, and it's still in great shape after several years.
Whatever stove you put in, check the manual for height requirements as well as CTCs.
My old stove had a 6" collar, but went straight into 8" all the way out. Ran ok, but after I put the 6" stovepipe inside, it ran better. Later, I redid the whole thing with 6" and it's better still.

 

Wow I may have to go through Menards for the pipe. Even with my employee discount, Menards of another 20% cheaper.

 

Lowe's also sells the Selkirk, but it's a bit pricier than Menard's.
If you have a Menard's nearby, go in.......they usually have a good selection in stock of pretty much all you'll need.

 

I have both a Menards and a Lowe's. As well as work for a true value so I get a discount through them. But still not as low as Menards. For pipe anyways. STOVE looks to be lower or real close through work. Just only 2 options. The Englander madison or the 13

 

This house is only about 1200 sq ft, not extremely well insulated, and the 30 is sometimes too much stove. Other times, not enough.
Air sealing and insulation is your friend.

 

That is one thing we have going is it is fairly tight. 95% of all windows are on the south side. So decent sun. And insulation is not bad. That is why I was leaning towards the madison rated at 2000sqft. Should give me enough over if needed but hopefully not over kill. Though I can run over heat into the garage if needed