In loving memory of Kenis D. Keathley 6/4/81 - 3/27/22 Loving father, husband, brother, friend and firewood hoarder Rest in peace, Dexterday

Baffle in my All-Nighter - Improved design and thoughts from 1 year after

Discussion in 'Non-EPA Woodstoves and Fireplaces' started by Razo, Oct 23, 2015.

  1. Razo

    Razo

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    Hi Guys,

    After much inspiration from WeldrDave and jetjr I put a baffle in my All Nighter Mid Mo last season. Nothing special, just a hunk of 1" plate resting up on the tubes inside the stove. Burned with it in all season.

    Did not clean my chimney until season's end and there ended up being very little creosote in there, probably 1/2 cup to a cup full. Stove would hold a fire fairly well but left me wanting a little more when it came to overnight burns.

    Catastrophe struck one day when I was home on my lunch break and filling the stove. I was trying to get one last oak split inside the firebox and it caught the baffle plate at just the correct angle to force it back, sealing against the flue pipe. Smoke immediately began billowing out of the front of the stove as I tried in earnest to pry the baffle back down with my poker. It was so heavy, being 1" plate, that it would not even budge. I ran and grabbed the crowbar from the garage and was able to hook it onto the plate, and pull it off the flue opening and back down onto the tubes. By the time this all transpired my house was filled with thick smoke. So in the middle of a lovely 20 degree February day, all the windows had to be opened and window fans ran. My house was freezing cold and everything reeked like smoke - misery defined.

    So I decided something HAD to be done to address this. While I had the baffle out on the workbench, I also decided to add an extension onto it to further increase the baffle's effectiveness - hopefully helping prolong burn time.

    Here is what I came up with: I welded a piece 1.5" angle iron across the backside of the baffle, this way, if I ever push it back with a split again, it cannot seal against the flue, the angle iron will hold it off against the fluepipe. I even coped out some openings in the angle iron to allow as much smoke through as possible if it did in fact get pushed back against the flue pipe.

    I had been conservative when I originally came up with the dimensions of the baffle since I didn't know for sure how big it should be so I erred on the side of caution. I feel like the baffle could be a bit larger to perform optimally so I welded an extension on out of a piece of 3/8" flat bar. I think it ended up extending it by 1.25 or 1.5", can't remember exactly.

    Then came the fun task of putting this behemoth back in the stove - something I always dread. I hope this is the last time I ever have to take it out! It weighs around 35lbs and has to go at the back of a rather long firebox so between reaching, squirming, and trying to fit as much of my body inside the stove as possible, I got it back where it needs to be.

    We'll see how it performs this year and if I see any improved results.

    Onto the pics:

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    upload_2015-10-23_14-53-12.png
     
  2. Razo

    Razo

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    Oh and WeldrDave , all 6011 stick, I was out of MIG gas - that's what made for the roachy looking welds - at least no one will ever see it haha.
     
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  3. bushpilot

    bushpilot

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    I currently heat with an Allnighter Mid-moe, and it has previously (before I bought the house wrapped around it) been modified with a top exit, rather than the rear one. The exhaust pipe is attached right in the middle of the upper top plate, and the aft exit is blocked off with a welded plate.

    I noticed that this unusual modification resulted in the flames shooting right up the pipe, and therefore put a baffle in. Mine is made of an angle iron frame into which I have set firebricks. This sits on top of the tubes, like yours does.

    The baffle made a big difference. I have a more controlled burn, and it seems to smoke less. I have not noticed any ill effects. It does build more creosote than yours, but that is almost certainly mostly due to my defficient chimney rather than anything else.

    Putting a baffle in these older stoves seems a no-brainer to me.

    Greg
     
  4. Razo

    Razo

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    wow that's the first I ever heard of a modified All Nighter with the back blocked off and top exit flue, would love to know the story behind that, a clearance issue perhaps. I like the firebrick idea, one of the reasons I went with 1" plate was that I never wanted to worry about heat fatigue. I agree, these baffles really are a no brainer, all it takes is witnessing flames being sucked right up the flue once before being convinced.
     
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  5. bushpilot

    bushpilot

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    I can only guess that the reason was for clearance purposes. It was done before I bought the house it is in.

    I do not recommend it, it provides a straight shot up the chimney, which I think is counter productive. But it is what I got.

    Greg
     
  6. WeldrDave

    WeldrDave Military Outpost Moderator

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    Razo, It looks "super" buddy! Hey, a size man once said, Your not building the ark again!:rofl: :lol:… If it works, thats all that matters! I fiddled with a lot of baffles, some times it's trial and error. See what happens!:cool::)
     
  7. jetjr

    jetjr

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    Hey Razo I might know a fellow that got his finger stuck for a time trying to get his baffle in.:emb:
     
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  8. WeldrDave

    WeldrDave Military Outpost Moderator

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    Razo, how's that baffle working out? That 1" must be a monster but dam will it hold heat!:cool:
     
  9. Razo

    Razo

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    Can you believe I've resisted the temptation to test it!? Well I have, I'm enjoying the rather muggy weather here in PA and have just ran the electric heat when needing to take the chill off.

    I have this weird conviction not to light a fire until after Halloween - and if the weather is supposed to be like they claim in the first week of November - highs around 65! Then I'll probably be able to hold out a bit longer. I have what I feel is JUST enough wood to make it through the winter so the longer I can hold off on burning the better. I have a very small lot so hoarding firewood is very difficult. I can get by on 4 cord a year - 5 would be ideal. At the absolute most, I can fit 6 cord on my lot at any given time so you see my predicament.

    In due time the Baffle Mark II will get its trial by fire (pun for the win). Looking forward to it and will be sure to update you guys.

    And yea, its a giant pain in the a** being made from 1" plate. I wanted to use what I had on hand and it was either that or 3/8" plate. Once its in though, like you said, giant heat holder!
     
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  10. WeldrDave

    WeldrDave Military Outpost Moderator

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    As do I!!! "but" one afternoon it got wet/rainy and chilly and the wife wanted a fire, sooooooo...:fire:
     
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  11. Razo

    Razo

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    nothing removes a chill from the air like a woodstove, just the thought of it makes me feel warmer inside.

     
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  12. savemoney

    savemoney

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    The is the exact model of my Allnighter. I don't have it any longer. it is in my son's home now. We heated our house comfortably for 15 years. 2200 sq ft with 5 cord of wood/yr.
     
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  13. jetjr

    jetjr

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    I've had a few fires so far this year. Decided today to put new pipe from the stove to the liner. Man I had a heck of a time getting the elbow over the outlet of the stove. Now it's stuck on. Hopefully a little heat will stretch it a little. Got to borrow a buddies crimper for the straight piece too. Should have it all installed tomorrow.
     
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  14. Beetle-Kill

    Beetle-Kill

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    Still trying to wrap my pointy head around the thought of using 1" plate. I used 1/2" for the baffle in my Timberline, not a hint of warping after a hard season of burning.
    But I did stack firebrick on top of it. Kudos to you, I physically couldn't have positioned 1" plate in mine. :BrianK:
     
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  15. WeldrDave

    WeldrDave Military Outpost Moderator

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    1" :eek: Yea, Maybe Razo can bench press his truck !:rofl: :lol::whistle: That's a biggin.... I've used 3/8" or 1/2" in the past also, it's plenty. 1/4" is just to thin but works also, thats what my first baffle was. But if thats what you have, you make it work!;).
     
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  16. lukem

    lukem

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    I have a 3/8" baffle in mine and looks as flat as it did when I installed it after 5-6 cord of oak and hedge last winter.
     
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  17. Razo

    Razo

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    Yea what's up with that? I had a heck of a time getting stove pipe over my outlet as well, I'm on board with a tight fit but jeeze.


    1" is stupidly unnecessary - had I had 1/2 plate, you would be looking at photos of a 1/2" plate baffle. All i had in my shop was chunk of 1" plate and lots of 3/8" plate. I wasn't going to go out and buy a piece of 1/2" plate just for this project. The night I installed was definitely interesting, would have made for one funny video.


    I needed to buy the truck to haul the baffle to my house! :rofl: :lol:


    Ah see this is the kind of insight that could have saved my back! I was determined to go bigger than 3/8" for fear of warping and fatigue however 1" was completely unnecessary. I didn't use 1" because I thought that was what was warranted, I used it because it was the only plate I had on hand larger than 3/8". I wrestled with the idea of just using 3/8" but thought I better err on the side of caution.
     
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  18. jetjr

    jetjr

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    Razo any fires yet? I've run a little over a cord through mine so far, mostly poplar though so thats why so much. Definitely burns hotter and longer since I added a little more to it. A piece of 1" angle with the angle pointed down to th front of mine.
     
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  19. Rowerwet

    Rowerwet

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    IMG_20151214_104642_277.jpg I have a real fisher instead of a pirated one (jk) and did notice the flames shooting up the chimney.
    Coaly gave the info about smoke baffles in Fisher's so I added one to my grandpa bear. Talk about a huge change! Much less wood for more heat, though I still must reload every two hours to keep the heat high.
    I did the firebrick baffle which works just fine.
    The top exit stoves were made to be fireplace inserts, they are not quite as efficient.
     
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  20. Razo

    Razo

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    Oh yea sorry, forgot to post an update. I've been burning pine through this rather mild shoulder season, haven't even gone through half a cord yet. The results seem great, I can a get a nice hot fire with impressive holding power for such a soft wood. Normally I just throw 3 or 4 one foot by one foot pine chunks in, fire it up, let her get cooking before dampening and it usually gives me a good 6-9 hours of heat. So far one of those fires a day on chilly days has been enough. Havent even had to make a fire the last few days.

    The warm weather can stick around as long as it wants, my stacks will be thankful but when the cold does hit, I cannot WAIT to see how a load of white oak or hickory - something that actually coals, performs with this improved baffle. I think I'll be pleasantly surprised.
     
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