Am fairly new all this, so about 9 months ago when I began I picked myself up a chainsaw. I didn't want to break the bank, Stihl was out of my league, almost pulled the trigger on a used Husq but wound up buying a new Tanaka 18" bar. Got nice reviews and had a nice warranty. At the time I didn't think I'd use all that much but as I got more and more into I used quite a bit. Anyways the last half dozen or so times I've used it especially this past Sunday every 5-10 minutes I've had to stop as either the chain got sloppy loose or the chain locked up and would not go freely around the sprocket. I'd sit and take it apart, clean it out it would take me forever it seems to get the chain moving freely on the sprocket. Finally I'd get it and just repeat the process 5-10 minutes later, frustrating to say the least. Is there anything that I might be doing wrong or something I should be checking/looking for to prevent this? From day one I've had to hold/pull the bar outward to get the slack out of the chain then tighten the nuts on it. That screw that's suppose to tighten the chain has done jack for me. Again am a total noob so I can very well be doing some dumb and inexperienced. Thanks in advance!
Could be a worn sprocket. When valleys are cut into the ridges, chain drivers slip into the valley and make chain loose. Need new sprocket. Could be chain adjuster pin is not seating in the bar hole properly. When you turn the screw CW, the pin nut goes toward front, pushing bar and tightens bar. List your model #. Posting pics of sprocket and chain adjuster is even better.
Thanks! It's a Tanaka TCS40 18" saw, I'll get pic's of the sprocket and chain adjuster. It's been a great little saw for my needs so far!
It takes a long time for a sprocket to wear out. I doubt after 9 months there is much wear on it. I think you have oiling problems. Do you have Bar oil in there? Make sure your resovior is full and take Bar and chain off. Run the saw for a couple minutes and watch for the flow of oil out of your oiler hole. If it is good check your oil hole on the bar. Is it plugged? Did you change bars from the original? You also have to have proper tension of the chain on the bar so you have to figure out your tensioner. There is 2 holes on top and bottom of the bar slot. The tensioner looks like it is on the clutch cover. Make sure your pin is moving when you are turning the screw. The pin for the adjuster goes in the bottom hole of the bar. From there turn the screw clockwise until the chain just kisses the bottom of the bar. Then tighten your nuts. Hope this helps. Check out some you tube videos for help also.
Funny you mention oil I feel like something is going on there as there seems to be a ton of oil. When I remove the casing I mean it is just gunched up inside, saw dust and oil. I figured it was normal, have nothing to compare it too. I did check oil hole in the bar and cleared it out, seems to get clogged real quick. I always make sure it's full of chain oil for sure. I will take the bar off and chain and run it to see what's going on. Bar is original bar for sure....! Thanks for info!
Good. So it is putting out oil. Is it getting in the bar? You can check by putting a piece of paper on the ground and reving the saw with the bar about 2-3 inches from it. There should be a healthy splatter of oil on the paper. Chips and oil get caked on the clutch cover normally but it shouldn't be caked on the oiling plate.
Def getting oil! I just went back to look at the manual and am an idiot. On my particular saw the tension screw is on the cover not on the actual saw, not so sure I was always lining it up. Again am a noob, sometimes I get ahead of myself. Hope I didn't jack anything else up by not having that lined up. Lesson learned!
I saw you lived in NJ too, was going to tell you to swing by with the saw if you are close. But you got it figured out. Good job.
One more thing: if the chain has jumped or hopped off the sprocket from being loose, you should inspect each chain tab for smooth movement in the bar groove. If you find links that grab the bar groove, file down the high spots on the drive link tab. Or replace the chain.
Maybe too... When you tighten the bar nuts, after you've adjusted the chain tension screw- hold the saw down with your left arm on the top "handle" and reach out and grasp/lift the bar with your left hand, then tighten the bar nuts as the manual suggests. You have to lift the bar before you put the final wrenching to the bar nuts or else the chain will loosen prematurely. That's essentially what my Husky manual says.
Thanks Fellas after looking at it again last night seems the tension screw is jacked up. When I turn the screw that screw pin if you will don't move and don't seem to be lined up correctly. In fact it actually filed part of the thread. Screw is bent, not sure that's normal or not, gonna lookup part for it. I'll get picture up of it can't seem to do from phone.
That looks no bueno. That is from putting on the cover without lining up the tensioner pin. New screw and tensioner should have you rocking and rolling again.
