Where to begin. I just bought myself my first wood stove ever . was going for a epa one but could not drop that money. Picked this fisher up for 180 and cleaned it up. I assume it was a good deal. Now here is when you all come in. In the picture below is what the baffle looks like. Is that normal? Secondly I have seen pic of others on here with their baffle is about two inches from the turn at the top of the stove mine is probably 5 inches or a hair more. Would it be worth getting a new one in there to close that gap more between the baffle and top inside corner? In not much of a modifier but would like to get this grandma stove to burn clean and efficient ...your Help is greatly appreciated guys thanks nick
Baffle looks roached, should be a fairly easy fix...hey WeldrDave Congrats on your first purchase of "product"...you'll be hooked in no time! And welcome to FHC...got wood? Edit: Pffft, looks like y'all snuck past me at the finish line
Welcome Nickcarp03 and congrats on a start towards the best heat you can get! WeldrDave is the Fisher Man here; others, too. And brenndatomu is also straight to the point....Got Wood? Hope to be reading more from ya, so get that camera fired up, pop them knuckles, and get comfortable at the keyboard. Glad you made it!
Primer on Woodburning by Backwoods Savage | Firewood Hoarders Club Trying to burn recently chopped wood is a PITA to light or keep going, doesn't put out much heat, and gunks up dangerous junk in your chimney. This turns alot of new burners off... Check this out from our revered senior expert
Your original baffle is correct! "BUT" warped real bad! I would go to a weld/steel shop and have another made "unless" you have steel and can do it yourself, make it the same size! 3/8" is the best "I" have found to work with and easy to get in with out being a weight lifter! The stock ones were 1/4" in some and did just what yours did. No harm though, it was a money saver. Congrat's on the Fisher, !!! You'll love it! By the looks of the inside you have a Grandma. Give us some outside pics! , Welcome aboard!!!
Forgot to mention, When you get a new straight piece back in there it will be a bit closer to the turn but the key here is what exactly the baffle actually does. And make sure, as you will hear here "MANY" times on this site, "seasoned wood only"!
O wow I did not think I would have this many replies already. So I am going to replace the baffle. now just to correct myself, keep the baffle the same size? I see some guys pics on here it looks like there is about two inches from that upper inside corner... Another thing, when I bought it full of rust, broken leg and full of spider webs it had a half gone door gasket but when the doors were shut it looked like the doors stuck out uneven. Seems like it does not need a gasket with how the lips of the doors are shaped.
Yes!!! Some are a pictorial illusion and some were experimental. There is a air/heat/volume calculation which has been beat around many time's! "trust me" when I say, if it isn't broke, don't fix it!!! Been there, done that!!! Rip the rest of the door gasket out because, "it doesn't belong" on any Fisher. They were never meant to have one, that was the design of the channel for the doors to fit in. People put gaskets in thinking it would stop and back draft or smoke, If you have correct flow in your chimney you will never have any issue. Also, the reason your doors are most likely striking un even is "because" of the door gasket and now the hinge pins are worn, They are an easy fix but do not put "bolts" in there.
Ok will do just that. Once I do all this I will pick your brains more on the secondary burn idea for the fishers. I am so excited to get this ol girl up and running. Yes guys I have 3 year old 3 cords of wood. Oak and cherry around this neck of the woods haha.
No need too: revert back to last, "not broke, don't fix"! . Many Fishers did not have baffles, and the heat/flame would travel right up the pipe. The baffle redirects the heat and flame to the top of stove producing a more complete burn and more condensed heat on the stove surface. Your Granny is tuned in with that baffle, it works! Take it from the "mad scientist" I've tried three different ones in my Granny, I'm back to one that's "almost" stock! Also remember, you may see different ones on here in "different" stoves, they are not Fishers and don't draft, burn, flow or combust like a Fisher so it's gonna be a different animal, trial and error is what makes them work.
How far do the front air intakes open up from the door. They were stuck shut and I used a hammer and towel and got them to open up 3/16 maybe 1/4 inch. I could hammer more but it required me to hammer harder so I stopped
Would the metal contract if the caps were chilled? I had almost identical caps on an old Englewood, they opened a couple inches.
My dad had a old mills at one time and when he saw my stove he said that his opened up almost a inch which got me guessing but like weldr Dave said the fisher is a different animal so I will leave 1/4 inch alone haha. Thanks guys for your info. I appreciate it. I'm addicted to this dang site now that wifey ask when I'm coming to bed now hahaha
Spray some WD40 with the small hose attachment on the can, in the front where the bolts are holding the draft caps. Like Eric said, move them back and fourth, they'll loosen up eventually. "DO NOT FORCE" them, you will crack the draft cap. Most are cast aluminum only "very few" came with brass caps. Take you time, there is just some corrosion in there. The cap should come open from the door a good inch, maybe more. But when your using the stove, your only going to have them open "maybe" a 1/4 inch at most.
Welcome to the FHC, still waiting for exterior pics of the Fisher. I still need to look at adding a baffle to my grandpa Fisher.
Welcome aboard Nickcarp03 Don't stop at wood processing with only 3 cord, keep busy on making it! Winter is a bit of a way off yet, but it sounds like you will have the fisher ready for action by then.
