What Teperature Do You keep Your Water?

OWB owners, at what temperature are you keeping your water this winter? Why?

 

Right now with the warmer temps I keep it at 160 an when it gets colder I like it at 180 . I have some heat exchangers under a floor where u walk in so your boots and floor are always dry. But when the temps are in the 40s the house tends to get to warm

 

I have an indoor gasser, set to shut down at 220. I didn't get the SS model because I'm not making DHW in the summer and those temps were suggested for longevity. Just now thinking that I'm a pressurized system, and OWB's are not??

 

Hello Bigfrank.
I keep my temps at 165 during the warmer months and than bump it up close to 180 much as 288lite described above. Seems to work just fine. I have a forced air system and I feel that during the shoulder season if I kept the water temps at 180, the blower motor would have a tendency to short cycle-that is to turn on and off more frequently. By leaving the temp at 165 during the "warmer" weather, the blower motor runs a bit longer but the advantage is to even out the whole house temperature.
Then when the cooler temps arrive, usually around single digits and below, I re-set the OWB temps to 180-ish. For obvious reasons!

 

I forgot to ask, are you new to OWB burning? What type of system?

 

Year 9 on a Taylor T-750. I have refined my approach each year of operation. I really do not like it that much as it is not efficient. but I have a lot invested. I am now considering lining it with firebrick and making a secondary combustion chamber to help with smoke and possibly burn times. Checkout this youtube video. What do you think?

Any other suggestions?

 

By the way. This is not my video.

 

I think I considered Taylor OWB back in 92-93 but decided against it for whatever reason. I do remember that appearance was one factor and I think the cleaning process was another.
That being said, i am not familiar with Taylor's warranty; if you bought the stove used, the warranty may very well be void anyway (that is, if it has a longer warranty-or if it is transferable).
If there is no warranty, I think I would try something like what the person in the video has tried. Based on his comments and video, he seems to be satisfied with the results. Sometimes you can contact the person as they might post some contact info along with their video.
Might also consider contacting Taylor and find out if there is anything that they could recommend (short of buying a new one) to increase the burn efficiency.
As far as the burn box on mt classic goes, there is a baffle that comes down from the roof of the burn chamber that the smoke/vent gases have to dip underneath before they enter the stack. Would something like this be possible for the Taylor?

 

Taylor went bankrupt a few years ago so worries about the warranty.

 

I keep mine at 150° spring and fall 170° in winter I have a diverting valve piped to my furnace coil. I keep my furnace fan on all heating season on low. My call for heat from my thermostat opens the valve. I have a A-19 for a changeover stat. When it's over 140°(adjustable) the call goes to the valve and under 140° it goes to the furnace. What happens if I run over 170° and the valve closes the heat in the burn chamber would make the boiler over heat. If I kept it below 170° it would never boil over. And 170° would keep my 175 year old house warm when its below 0° outside. Now I'm trying a smaller gasser.

 

190 here all the time. Might try bumping it up to 200 next year. The larger the difference in on-off might help out a little.

Why would you set your temperatures lower at any time? Just trying to wrap my head around that.

 

Would it save wood? Or Wood it save would?

 

In the summer I run mine around 155, only using it to heat domestic water so a few pieces of scrap wood lasts a long time. Usually only burn garbage wood in the summer. It's running at 180 now because it's so cold out.

 

I run my home made gasifier at 185*.My stove like that temp best for quick recovery to restart the gasification burn.I tried lower temps but didnt like the perfomance.I have made a few other mods to the stove ,and I may revisit this in the future to play with it.

 

I am new here . House we bought few years back has a Taylor 750. We jab big big house well insulated using zoned in floor hot water. I used about 8 cords last winter .
I remember seeing this video. But can't find it now. Sounds like it is worth a try specially since I'm over 70 now and cut and slit the wood by hand with a monster maul. Wife says it build character and that I really need some.
Any clues on the video where abouts.

 

First welcome to the Forum. I hope you post something in one of the more popular threads. Glad to see another senior here. Splitting 8 cords by with a maul is a heavy workout. I recommend a wood splitter such as what Backwoods Savage uses. In fact, I would encourage you to look him up. He is a senior and has a tremendous amount of insight and experience with wood burning. There are many folks here willing and able to help, and just a heck of a lot of fun to chat with.

 

Hey Mofree welcome to FHC. We really like any photos with firewood n mauls n stacks n stuff in em too...

 

I run 170 to 194 in winter. Summer 165 to 186. These are the temps where the controller turns on the boiler and turns off. In the summer it will turn off at 185 but will over shoot to 194. I keep the temp hot because of a diverter valve that keeps the boiler hot. No hot water gets to the house if the water temp is below 150. Plus it gets more heat to the house when hotter.

 

Digging up an old thread doing a search.
What kind of aquastat controller are you using?Mine will turn on the blower at low setting and off at high but won't shut off if the fire goes out and actually causes water to cool by blowing outside air in. I'd like to find some thing that would shut down when water temp drops way below minimum that could be overidden manually when starting up cold.