I picked up a Castine a few weeks ago from a CL ad that needed some attention. I did a thorough clean out of the firebox with a Sooteater and wire brush. I replaced most of the gaskets on the stove. I don't have tear down photos, but will put up the re-build pics. I hope this thread will be helpful for Castine owners if they need to do some maintenance work. I first started with the smoke outlet gasket. The nice feature of this outlet allows you to top vent or spin the outlet 180 degrees to a rear vent position. I replaced the door and glass gaskets next. Two clips hold the glass in place. The old gaskets were falling out. The glass gasket looked like it did not have cement to hold it in place. I'm not sure if it is needed, but I put a small bead around in the groove. I took the secondary assembly apart. There are two gaskets to the assembly. One is to seal the secondary air chamber where the holes allow the air into the top of the fire box. The second gasket is around the outer edge of the cast iron plate that the air chamber is bolted to. This view is the underside of the cast iron plate where the secondary air chamber is bolted to. This view is of the top of the right burn plate where the secondary air is brought in to the secondary assembly. There is a flat gasket that the assembly sits on that can fall out where removing the assembly for chimney cleaning. The replacement gaskets have adhesive to hold them in place. The left top of the inner burn plate. I replaced the top plate gasket. The top plate is held down by a bolt on each side of the top of the outer side plate. I put the three fire bricks back in. The rear burn plate, was repainted and put back in. The rear burn plate is held in place by notches in the side inner plates. It is just held in place by gravity. It is easily removed.
Here the picture of the secondary assembly with the baffle on top. This has to go back in the stove and tilted to get in place and sit up on top of the side plate. The thicker gasket is what seals the assembly to the burn plates. Here is a nice view of the secondary assembly sitting in place. The assembly is pretty difficult to lift and get in place. It is a tight fit and awkward to handle. I'm sure a few tries, and I could figure out the correct tilt and angle to get it in and out. There is a tab on the underside of the secondary assembly that swings and pulls the assembly snug to the plates.
FP- Awesome job with your rebuild! I alone am glad you posted this, as it will give me some insight when I decide to tear mine down sometime. Some things I noticed...... the tabs to hold the window in place are way better than the small ones mine has. Also, the window gasket when I a new one on mine had adhesive on the one side, but I too added cement. In your 4th picture, when I removed my secondary plate, and the flat gasket looked like it just sat in place. So thats where I left it. Pushed it back in with a flathead, but there is a small air gap. I haven't noticed any issues during the burn though. In your second post, second picture, I agree. Getting that plate back up there was tricky. Having to maneuver it correctly in place.......and its pretty heavy. Real nice job..... it looks really good!
I hope others will benefit from it too. There is not a lot of info out there on the Castine as far as the inner workings. I will replace the flat gaskets under the window clips. The existing ones are pretty flat, but hold the glass pretty well for now. The flat gaskets at the secondary plate should be cemented in place or replaced with the adhesive backed ones. I imagine the adhesive will heat up and not hold them at some point, then it will get cement. You went kidding about the heat the stove throws. The firebox must be close to 50% larger than the F3. I find it runs a little sluggish on the draft. Online reviews have many owners complaining about it being sluggish. I have only burned fires with two splits so far, and not really woken this thing up yet. Not much secondary action either. I hope the colder weather makes a difference. I am sure there is a learning curve on this stove, I just need to figure it out. My set up drafts real well, but this stove is different. I have a feeling it needs a full box and may be slow with a smaller load. I wonder if the baffle contributes to the slow down. Overall, I like the capacity a lot. The air intake lever does not get hot like the F3, and the door is pretty big with a large window to let heat out. So far, I'm Ok with with the stove, just getting the draft situation squared out will make me happy. I wonder if the baffle was half the height or the European air intake slide plate would make a difference?
How are you running the stovepipe out? You are correct with the draft. When I was learning the stove, I had some struggles..... but once I learned it, no issues. I also have an OAK set up, and that may make some difference. If the baffle was half the height, it would probably help, along with flipping the slide plate 180° (which ive done, and flipped back to where it was originally since, your set up may be different) To be completely honest, 2 complaints I have are, wishing it had a deeper firebox....... and I was able to close it down completely, as with a load of oak, this thing is like a flame thrower with the secondarie at full ignition.
Top vented, up about 23 feet in a flex liner with insulation wrap in an interior brick and terra cotta chimney. Pulls like a vacuum on a warm day. Temp was 40 degrees today, and it is running really well on maple. I think I need a better coal bed to start before adding the bigger splits. I have it running at 550 with closed primary air now. Tell me about the slide plate? I noticed it has a set screw of some type on it, but I did not pay too much attention to it. With a full load, this will be a more than adequate heater.
When I get a second, Ill pull the doghouse cover and see what I got in there. I dont remember a screw, but what I do remember is the slide plate was american one way, and european flipped the other way. The american way left a small gap for air, and the euro way closed it completely.
Interesting. I pulled the cover off. The bolt that I recalled was in the cover hanging down. It looks like it does not hit the slide at all. I'm not sure what it actually does. The slide looks to be non-reversible on mine.
I just bought a Jotul F400 Castine for $700 which looks to be in very good condition needing only gaskets so the reconditioning phots here have helped me a lot since this is my first Jotul of any kind. Does this stove need caulking and if so which joints and where? Anybody have photos of that being done? Jimmy in TN
I believe where there isn't gasket material in the seams, furnace cement will be needed. fishingpol will definitely have a better idea.
Welcome to FHC Jimmy. Where the corners met up on the back, front and side plates, mine were good. I did reseal the secondary combustion chambers on the side. The cement had lost its' seal and crumbled a bit. The stove ran much better after that. Here is the link to that thread: Jotul Castine inner side plate re-sealing. New door and glass gaskets are easy to replace and also the glass clip gaskets. Well Seasoned and myself had the gaskets at the top of the inner side plates fall out of place. Those can be inspected by removing the baffle assembly. Those gaskets are flat and small and can fall down into the side plates. They should be glued down with stove gasket adhesive. Removing the top of the stove is a better way to inspect and lift the secondary baffle assembly out. Feel free to ask questions and look at the schematic on the Jotul website for reference.
Welcome mucha_usa! As I'm sure you are aware this is a great site. Everyone here is very willing to help. Don't be shy with the pics of that stove.....or your saw, wood piles, pets, etc. We love pictures around here
Nice write up and pictures. I just installed a new one this will come in handy when it is due for some maintenance
I wasn’t paying attention and Liked a 4 year old post. In all fairness it is still impressive 4 years later.
I am also good at necro liking. There is so much here to read that I seldom look at posting dates before I comment on or like a post
I have a f400 apart right now, mainly so two of us could carry it in. I had resealed the side plates with stove cement before I came across this site. I can tell you that those m6 bolts that hold the side plates to body are , and I will be most polite here are," very awkward ", to drill out and re tap if you happen to shear them off. Copper slip or similar required here. My stove is a "new to me" - looks like it's been lit perhaps 4 or five times, then left somewhere damp, or cold. It is complete with the exception of the baffle plate under lid and on top of top of burn chamber if you understand me. I can see from your pics (thank you) that it just sits atop between lugs, has a cut out under. What I cannot see is how high it needs to be. I reckon around four inches.....or does it contact back body of stove...or is there clearance over. or does it lean forward and just miss bottom of lid. From your pictures and the clean even heated look of it, I'm guessing it leans forward with perhaps 1/2 in clearance under lid. Would anyone with a tape and the time be prepared to give me a dimension and possibly an end on sketch or photo as I will shortly be making something to replace it with. My only alternative for any accuracy is a 200 mile round trip to Bristol to a showroom where they are not going to like me lifting a lid to see for myself. The "doghouse" air slide cover appears to be deliberately made to provide air to bottom of fire via 2 slots. Jotul won't have got this wrong I'm sure , but I could use that extra air over glass. I have no trouble lighting up, does any one have experience of blocking this additional feed off . For reference, my fuel is all Ash with at least three years in an airy large shed, in my opinion as good as it gets. All cut with my trusty Jonsereds 621 x 4, and split on a home built tractor hydraulic log splitter. Assistance in this simple matter would be most gratefully appreciated .....earliest. Thanks and greetings from the UK.
Welcome to FHC Heatmonger. I'll pull the baffle tonight or this weekend and take measurements and pictures for you. The baffle plate sits angled in the lugs. Can you order the part from a dealer and have it shipped to you?
Hi there. That would be great.. I'm particularly interested in whether it touches underside of top, or has clearance, so a good idea of it's overall dimensions would be a great help. Yes, I can order a spare no problem....BUT it would cost more that the stove cost me in the first place. Britain is a very greedy place. I have plenty of armour plate at 3/8'' and 1/2'' which will stand that kind of life with ease, an oxygen/ acetylene set, grinders etc. If I can find my chalk, goggles and a straight edge, I could reproduce this in around 2mins-- 4 if you wan't it polished. Come to think of it, shipping to here would cost more than the stove ! As I am sure you will understand, low cost makes for a finer heat ! Your input will be much appreciated.
Welcome to the club heatmonger! You've come to the right place. Lots of knowledge around here. On a side note you can say hello to the whole gang here..... Introduce yourself here !
That must be frustrating having those type of costs. Baffle plate around here looks like $21.00 USD. Here is the pictures with dimensions, imperial though. Width 12" Height 3 1/2" Notch is 4" wide by 5/8" high. Cast iron is 3/8" thick. The baffle has lugs that fit the ones on the top of the secondary assembly. Baffle is pitched back maybe 5 degrees. I still have it apart if you have any other questions, but it is going back together tonight.
