Well I just burned 4 weeks of leave, part of it was due to the death of a good friend. So I'm back on the stove install.
Some progress today, I removed and capped off the NG line (it's closed at the main also) from inside the shop. Removed the hanging furnace and did some lite dusting. Not sure what I'm going to use for the surround.
I haven't been keeping up on this thread, but very sorry about the loss of your friend. Love seeing progress pics Unicorn1. I'm glad you're back at it. Agreed on the offsets for the pipe. Not hard to do with a straight section between them depending on the offset needed.
Question; If I frame the corner with plywood and durarock (sides open) and then use a metal surround for an air gap, will this be enough to protect the wall insulation?
https://woodheatstoves.com/free/NFPA211_old.pdf Page 38 I wouldn't use plywood, it's another combustable that would be closer to the stove than the insulation. I would just use a metal shield. How close to the insulation be to the corners of the stove?
I'll need to see how far out a 45 degree elbow will put the stove, no real limit on stove placement other than the ceiling hole is already cutout.
Update today, I attached two 4'x8' sheets on Hardie board to the purlins and filled the corner gap. I might need to rethink my setup because I didn't anchor the bottom of the sheets, I'd need to fab a long spacer for this. I haven't decided what to use for the second gapped wall yet.
Unicorn1, you've already got your air gap. It's behind the Hardieboard. Hook it up. Are you planning to put some more insulation or anything behind the Hardie? You can put up the rest above that after the stove is installed.
Well, depends on the distance to the pipe. Also, whether you use single or double wall. Single wall is usually 18" ctc.
Double wall from the stove to the ceiling and triple through the ceiling. I was thinking if I added a second air space of metal it would reflect the heat off the wall?
FWIW, I would use single wall pipe, if you can maintain the 18" CTC with it. While you are trying to warm the shop and pushing the stove hard, a tremendous amount of heat will be going up the chimney. The surface area of that much pipe is probably more than the surface area of the stove, lots of heat that could be radiated in the shop. I would rather have the extra heat even if it meant sweeping the flue more often. JMHO.
Today's progress, I rented a 20ft ladder and a friend came out to help. I still need to tweak the support box before final assembly.
Today's update; I sourced the Metal roof flashing from Mueller's Buildings today, sanded down and repaint the fisher stove (paint is still drying). I had to grind down a weld on the door pins to remove the two doors and they will go into the blast cabinet.
